#1 SKIN TONES
Nude to caramel, the biggest colour trend is warm skin tones. All of the major collections showed them. Some of the best pieces: Prada’s laminated jersey (looked like plasticized leather) car coat to Gucci’s rock and roll camel topper with feathered sleeves.
Fur is as much of Italian life as pasta and vino. Every single show highlighted it – from long haired furs to short plush. Standouts included: Etro’s turquoise belted plush jacket, Roberto Cavalli’s brocade topper lined with lynx, Marni’s petrol-hued lush fur sleeveless jacket with a fur bottom, and Fendi’s patchwork effect jackets.
Fall is a season of supple leathers and suedes. I was impressed by the basket weave leathers at Gianfranco Ferre, Versace’s slick leather motorycycle inspired trousers, and the black leather tunic, trimmed with fur, at Gucci.
#4 PHOEBE PHILO
Every season, one designer seems to influence many others. In past years, Prada has been a magnet. Last year, many seemed to be suffering from too much Balmain-ia. This year, it’s the minimalist look pioneered by Phoebe Philo at Celine. She’s the one who really championed nudes and minimalism in a fresh modern way.
#5 STEALTH LUXURY
Holt Renfrew’s Barb Atkin talks about gorgeous quality clothes that don’t scream with flashy logos or design gimmicks. Good examples in my book? Jil Sander’s streamlined check suits, and Max Mara’s sweeping military coats.
From pearl grey to charcoal, the full range of grey is stronger and more flattering than basic black. Most shows dabbled in grey. I particularly loved Giorgio Armani’s grey suits, Jil Sander’s charcoal boots and satchels, and a military inspired suit with a gorgeous back peplum at Max Mara.
#7 BLUE OR RED
Colour wasn’t a big story in Milan but two brights stood out: cherry red lipstick and Avatar blue. Gorgeous reds could be found at Armani, Versus, Marni and Dolce & Gabbana. Deep nature blue was spotted at Versace, Prada and Etro.
Velvet popped up in key collections in tailored jackets and cocktail dresses. Plush places to look included Giorgio Armani, D&G, and Versus.
What’s fall without a chic assortment of knit and purl favourites? I loved D&G’s exuberant Nordic ski bunny collection – Natasha Poly started the show in a snug knit romper with furry boots. On a more sophisticated note, Prada’s black cable dress with a ruffled bodice looked cosy and gorgeous. The rest of the collection featured chunky knit knee socks with bowed patent stilettos.
#10 WHITE GOWNS
Fashion shows no longer routinely end with a bridal gown. And make no mistake, while these white finales are not intended to walk solely down the aisle, they would be stunning. The looks ranged from D&G’s sweet finale of white chiffon gowns with floppy black ties; to Roberto Cavalli’s embellished boho chic gowns; to Versace’s super sexy stunners that flashed lots of skin.