To peplum or not to peplum? At Arthur Mendonça’s buzzy show last night—a follow-up to his return to the runway last season—the choice was all yours. First exits offered a clever answer to the couture-tinged trend of the season: zip-off ruffles on lean blazers, sporty tank tops and skirt-suits all in a nubby ecru tweed. As a sleeker proposition, the designer offered glossy black gilets, trousers and toppers, all with de rigueur wide belts cinched high on the waist. Quickly stepping away from his tailored version of the power woman, Mendonça sent out a array of spice-colored gypset (gypsy + jet set) blouson dresses–the sort Anita Pallenberg types adore. Before things got a little too Gucci girl (the flora frocks with asymmetrical cutout were a clear homage to Tom Ford’s helm at the label), he smartly switched up the look with bleeding-stripe separates, citron frocks and a cool cobalt tuxedo. Despite this slightly uncohesive back-and-forth, Mendonça had yet another trick up his sleeve: top model Andrej Pejic, a 6-foot-tall androgynous stunner who’s walked the couture runway for Jean Paul Gaultier and appeared in the pages of Paris Vogue. I wasn’t the only one who wished he’d been done up in one of the slit-to-there silk chiffon gowns that closed the show. Instead, Pejic loped down the runway in a relaxed suit, showing at least that, like Mendonça, he’s no one-trick pony.