With the sun beating down on the heads of São Paulo Fashion Week goers, it’s easy to forget that these shows, in the dead of Brazilian summer, are for the winter season. That is, until you see the interior of the Bienal Building, located in the heart of Ibirapuera Park. The entrance, like a long wooden runway, is surrounded by water, and abstract art that resembles clusters of tree branches hangs from the ceilings high above.
The fresh beginning-of-winter feeling is a welcome one, and is echoed in the looks the designers walk down the runway on day one. First up is Animale, with designer Priscilla Darolt at the helm of the saddlery-inspired collection. Hybrid pieces, like skirts and jackets morphed into dresses, and pants and vest turned into jumpers, are done in winter white, blush and soft orange. Skirts and dresses made of thin leather share the feminine silhouettes of knits and alpaca wool pieces, even when the colour palette takes a sharp turn to coffee, petroleum blue and black.
Next to walk the runway is Eduardo Pombal’s collection for Tufi Duek. Inspired by Scandinavian architecture and design, Pombal created structured pieces with a ’60s spin, and put soft pleats and ruffles on drop-waist dresses, giving the collection an edgy femininity. Winter white, off-white and camel dominated the show, and thin leather and faux-fur detail most of the blouses, skirts and dresses.
But the real winter wonderland head-turner is Samuel Cirnansck‘s brainchild. More leather starts his show, with a creamy brown trench coat taking the lead, a white silk blouse with creamy brown leather shorts coming out second, and wide, waist-cinching belts made of the same leather splashed throughout the entire collection. An ice blue dress with white feather and beaded lace details adds a perfectly placed splash of colour to Cirnansck’s work, as does a coat in the same blue. But the real standout pieces come toward the end, when skirts and dresses created from what look like snow-barren tree branches are paired with headpieces to match. Très Lady Gaga.