Chloé and Parris Gordon are designing for the cool girls. In only a few seasons they have managed to nail down an aesthetic that is identifiable if only because the young designers seem to be creating clothes for their friends and themselves – i.e. urban girls who like a little bit of whimsy. The label is a true sister act, with Chloe designing the apparel, and Parris taking care of the jewellery. It makes for a succinct and artful aesthetic that takes wide inspiration.
For Fall, the designers were thinking gothic and punk with some ‘90s influences thrown in, showing their largest and most diverse collection to date. Save for some roomy maxi dresses and skirts in green prints, camel, and grey, which themselves were typically paired with leather jackets or fur, the cloths were fitted and tailored. The first look down the runway was a grey silk printed shirt, half-tucked into a pair of perfect black embroidered skinny pants. The look was rock-n-roll, but the fabrics were pure luxury. Zippered slits cut up the front of the pants – which appeared a few more times in slightly different incarnations – made the models’ legs look even longer. Zippers were a motif here, punctuating black wool overcoats as well. Sterling silver chains were another heavy metal – as harnesses over printed blouses and as delicate shoulder straps on a decidedly ‘90s printed slip dress.
The punk vibe came through in the details, especially in the large silver studs that dotted the shoulders of a coat and lined a pair of navy trousers. It wasn’t hardcore punk, however, but feminine and antique, as the studs showed as beads embroidered onto the clothes rather than embedded spikes. The show’s ghostly beauty really came through in the dresses and coats with cape extensions that fell from the shoulder to the waist giving the distinct impression of wings. Two long and airy dresses were topped with thick fur collars and vests that added volume without weighing the look down. “I want everything,” my friend whispered during the finale walk.