On the Runway

New York Fashion Week: Menswear at Max Azria; madcap at Thakoon

Photography by Anthea Simms

Menswear is in the air at Max Azria, a strong message in the sleek grey suited first looks out. Parachute silk tops and shirt dresses are some of the most invitingly wearable items in the line-up, not to be outdone by equally clean-cut leathers and hairy textured coats. A saturated orange frock with rows of tightly layered ribbon was a pick-me-up piece in a sea of neutrals. But even the neutrals had their own bold colour story, like the cognac-hued leather utility pants that looked buttery soft. The coat-du-jour for fall—the cape—showed up again, solidifying the return of this classic outerwear item.

The luxe ballroom of the Plaza Hotel is the setting for the Thakoon collection, and as a  very restless audience waits pre-show for 45 plus minutes, even I have to remind myself to just sit back and enjoy such a stunning venue. The dimly chandelier-lit ballroom eventually floods with light and models strut out to pulsing tribal music. An unexpected opening look comprised of a reconstructed blue and red buffalo check puffy parka set the tone for this madcap, inventive collection. Royalty played a role—we’ve seen this at Jason Wu and Prabal Gurung already this week—with fur-trimmed sashes, and stately draped jackets. Bold colour rears its head in saffron, fuchsia, and fittingly, royal blue.  

See a gallery of runway looks from Day 4: Thakoon, Diane von Furstenberg and Victoria Beckham