On the Runway

New York Fashion Week: Marc Jacobs gets strict with rubber

The designer gets disciplined

Photography by Anthea Simms

The last show of Day 5 is the highly-anticipated Marc Jacobs collection. Now that the shows are known for starting very promptly, I make sure to start heading for the venue an hour before it begins. Can’t risk missing this one! Jacobs is known for setting the tone of the season, and at first glance of the venue, I can’t help but wonder if we’re going to see some boudoir belles walk the runway. Giant puffy pillars of quilted vinyl divide the runway lanes, lit with the most girlish shade of pink. Jacobs has the last laugh when the show begins, the pink lights are flicked off, the high beams are flicked on. Pink pillars become blindingly white, and a screaming soundtrack care of Marilyn Manson’s “The Beautiful People” spills out. Canadian stunner Alanna Zimmer is first out, in a strict silouette of turtleneck top, cropped grey patent pants, and strapped-on mini beret. In following looks, there was plenty of plastic, latex, rubber, and faux-croc. Pencil skirts were nipped in to the extreme; some girls only took the shortest, quickest of steps to the pounding pace. A little bit lady, a little bit perverse, polka-dots adorned a number of skirt suits, coats, and even hosiery. This show was an absolutely treat for the eyes with so many mix-and-clash textures, saturated colours, and restricted silhouettes. Following last season’s relaxed cuts and looser shapes, it’s a welcome return to something far more structured.

See a gallery of looks from Day 5: Marc Jacobs, Donna Karan, Theory and Carolina Herrera