On the Runway

New York Fashion Week: Dramatic mixed materials at Carolina Herrera

Another jam-packed day begins at 10 a.m. with Carolina Herrera and will  end tonight at 8 with the highly-anticipated Marc Jacobs show. First up, Herrera’s collection begins with understated elegance and concludes with dramatic mixed-material gowns. In attendance is buzz-worthy designer Prabal Gurung, who is mentored by Herrera, surely picking up additional pointers from the ready-to-wear legend. Also seated front and center is Flare’s October cover girl, Christina Hendricks, looking lovely in a navy frock and her signature bouncy red locks. Throughout the show she nods approvingly—perhaps noting top picks for future press junkets and red carpet appearances? The voluptuous beauty would certainly wear the nipped-waist skirts and full blouses well. Classic daywear breaks into eye-catching seafoam printed silks, in a super sophisticated puff-sleeve blouse and pencil skirt. The real crowd-pleasers end the show: fabulous layered and pleated gowns in various artistic washes of colour. What keeps these looks modern is the inclusion of high-shine patent material that you’d never expect to see in formalwear of the sort.

Immediately following is Carlos Miele. Though the show notes intrigue me with their description of “tridimensional surface….satellite images…” the collection isn’t quite what I expected. A cascade of harem pants and jumpsuits feel like last fall’s Chloe, and heavy velvet dresses do little to flatter even the slenderest of models. Overall, the show doesn’t feel on point for the season, but perhaps it is early days and this sort of dramatic draping and thick fabrics will pop up again in the coming weeks. The two closing gowns are easily the most stellar offerings, in a detailed watercolour print.