On the Runway

New York Fashion Week: Day 7 with Kors, Lim and Marchesa

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Proenza Schouler Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

3.1 Phillip Lim Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Michael Kors Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Michael Kors Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

It was an all American morning with Tory Burch and Michael Kors showing back to back.

Michael Kors was in a sunshine state of mind according to his show notes. Kors has built an empire on jet set luxe, easy sportswear shapes in the most luxurious fabrics. Which was exactly what we saw today. He referenced the relaxed feel of pajamas, robes, sarongs, tees and sweats – all the pieces we love to live in all summer long. Cashmere sweat tops were paired with python skirts, tunic dresses were in buttery leather, and pant suits relaxed in gauzy linen. The oversized messenger bags, platform wedges and flat sandlas added to the summer easiness of the collection.

The 3.1 Philip Lim girls seems to have grown up a little. A favourite amongst young it-girls everywhere, this season saw more sophisticated, complex silhouettes – with backless jackets, strategically layered looks, and polished pant suits. Summer leathers, a neutral colour palette and some forward thinking evening wear made this one of my favourite Lim collections. And at that price point, everyone can get a piece of the action.

Marchesa showed their collection at the Chelsea Art Gallery, appropriate given their collection was a series of fashion masterpieces. Jaw dropping gowns with an Orientalist twist, hand embroidered jewels, hand painted florals, laser cut silk crepe and the most luxurious lace. The lace pant suits, a glamourous alternative to a gown felt so medern and so right. These clothes are of couture quality and seeing them up close took my breath away. 

At Reed Krakoff, Martha Stewart was admiring Julianna Moore’s fur covered shoes before the show started. Those sre the moments you don’t see on the internet.

In his second show, Krakoff seemed inspired by the nineties with minimalist aesthetic. Stella Tennant opened the show in all white look – now a common theme this week. Boxy cut vests, jackets and pant suits, some accessorized with the “utilitarian apron belt” – also a trending piece this season. Gold embroidered chainmail dresses added punk bravado to a utilatarian collection. Of course, being the Creative Director of Coach, the accessories not surprisingly were some of the best this season, with horse hair and moc croc heels.

Proenza Schouler was lady meets punk with tweed skirt suits livened up in neon shades of pink and green. While this collection looked more polished it was anything but old. A coral suede croc coat took my breath away. And the finale of fluoro sequined dresses in the mid-calf length that’s so popular this season, had me wanting more, more, more. I can see every young front row it-girl wearing these next season.