On the Runway

New York Fashion Week: Day 5

Marc Jacobs Sping/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Marc Jacobs Sping/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Marc Jacobs Sping/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Marc Jacobs Sping/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Rad Hourani; Photo by Anthea Simms

Rad Hourani; Photo by Anthea Simms

Donna Karan Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Donna Karan Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Part of the adventure that is fashion week is being lured to obscure locations. Monday morning I found myself in a vast building far up the West Side Highway. It was here that Diesel Black Gold showed a collection inspired by desert chic.  Suedes and leather were fabrics of choice with denim only appearing as washed out cut offs or in sand coloured jeans. A skirt made of tiered leather leaves caught my eye as did the wide leg linen pants. Suede tunics and flat sandals, all perfect for a Thelma and Louise moment.

Donna Karan seemed to have caught the travel bug too with an all sand, tan, vanilla and gold collection. Crumpled metallic twill jackets, silks printed to look like burlap, light silk dresses. I could picture myself pulling these clothes out of my travel bag on a luxury African safari. The vibe was exotic but in sophisticated, subtle way. The finale dresses had red carpet written all over them.

It’s not easy to penetrate an already overly saturated fashion week. But Rad Hourani has managed, in a few short years, to grab the media and buyers attention at New York fashion week. He’s also a darling of insider fashion circles in Paris. For spring he showed his Rad by Rad Hourani collection, a lower priced alternative to his main line. Secondary collections can be a lucrative alternative to high priced ready to wear. And with a lower price point, but similiar aesthetic, all of Hourani’s young fans can afford to have a piece of the designer. Sticking to his formula of unisex clothing and the same layer and mix and match sensibility.

In a mostly black collection, Hourani introduced white and stripes to his lineup. A best seller is bound to be the  dark stretch denim with pleather pants give the illusion of a thigh high boots.

Most of us at New York Fashion Week live for the Marc Jacobs show. The most highly anticipated show of the week, and most coveted ticket – I store mine in my hotel safe! Every season is like an unwrapped present, one never knows what will be inside but surely always giddy when we find out. While Jacobs has a very recognizable aesthetic, no two collections ever look the same. So forget last seasons neutral, sober looks, 50’s inspired looks. This season it was full on seventies glam. Think Jodie Foster in Taxi Driver, Yves Saint Laurent. The colour palette was all wine, plum, gold, coral, pumpking. Long maxi dresses, jumpsuits and satin pantsuits. The shoes were platformed with chunky heels, the hats were oversized and floppy and perhaps my favourite part – the bags, small, hand he’ll, structured gems decorated with crystals ans embroidery.