On the Runway

New York Fashion Week: Day 4 with Victoria Beckham & Derek Lam

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

Photo by Anthea Simms

UPDATE:

Thakoon opened his show with an all white look which is becoming a running theme this week. Twill jackets with detachable pieces, eyelet cut in edgy ways-all synonymous with Thakoons signature of turning otherwise feminine looks into  something forward and unexpected. Surface decoration came via over sized hook and eye’s. Wallpaper floral’s in sheer silks, contrasted with tougher conductor’s stripes. The python silver jacket and blue dress kept everything from becoming too sweet.

For a second last night I thought I had been transported to LALA land, but infact, it was the Tommy Hilfiger star-studded 25th anniversary show. As I eyed the door I watched the Richards sister, Ed Westwick, Kristen Bell, Lenny Kravitz, Neil Patrick Harris, the even more handsome in person Bradley Cooper and finally, the queen bee, Jennifer Lopez. Hilfiger has built his business on all-American preppy classics with a youthful edge. And that’s exactly what we got tonight. Seersucker, tennis sweaters, khakis, trenches, plaid and high topped loafers. All pieces that will keep the TH shopper happy.

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UPDATE:

Preen by Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi is a label that has reached cult status with it-girls like Leigh Lezark and Julia Restoin Roitfeld. Perfect for the modernist girl who still wants to look sexy. The palette of dove grey, light blue and chalk lent itself to the structural shapes of jackets with cutaway backs, long sheer skirts, apron like details on pats and jackets. A hard show to explain in words but visually it was stunning.

The DKNY girl has grown up this season in sexy sportswear chic. Think great suits, trenches, and ladylike scarves. Ruffels and floral added a personal splash to a neutral colour palette.

The colour palettes this season are proving to be soft, calming and neutral. And that’s exactly what Max Azria delivered today. In a collection of minimalist flowing dresses. Any woman walking in these would look magical. While the mid-calf length dress was the hero of the show, there were slouchy suits that are the perfect work wear option in the summer heat.

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Derek Lam’s collection today was true American sportswear at it’s best. Starting with the opening denim trench followed by high-waisted wide leg trousers, a-line skirts, denim on denim, 70’s inspired silhouettes and a subtle colour palette, high collared trenches with ruffle tails . The sleeveless trench that was a trend item a few seasons ago, has now become a spring staple. Linen poncho cape dress with belted front was effortlessly chic. Soft ikat prints and beading on a full skirt added to the neutral colour palette. Lam has gotten in on the accessories game the last few season. Shoes varied from slingback flats to wedges to simple heels. Graphic metal cuffs were the only jewelry and bags were structured shoulder bags

I pulled up to a plush Upper East Side townhouse, the location for Victoria Beckham’s spring summer presentation. There in a courtyard, Beckham was chatting with guests, looking relaxed. Seated in the very intimate show space, Beckham introduced herself to each guest and narrated the show, pointing out inspiration, technical details and fabrics for each piece. The focus this season was on curve and shape, with a bit of 60’s and inspired by Brancusi. Beckham said her personal style has loosened up lately and she wanted to bring that to her collection. Thus, eliminating all corsets except for one and focusing on fabrics like parachute silk. This season she also introduced handbags, a collection of luxe box shapes in colours of rose. The Brian Atwood designed rose gold shoes were inspired by the designers new Rolex. This was such a refreshing way to view a collection.