On the Runway

New York Fashion Week: Day 3

Alexander Wang; Photo by Anthea Simms

Alexander Wang; Photo by Anthea Simms

Prabal Gurung; Photo by Anthea Simms

Lacoste Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

For some deluded reason, I had the impression day three was going to be a rather light one. I was wrong! I spent half my day at the Lincoln Centre tents – the new home for NYFW. It’s an impressive location with it’s limestone buildings and spacious entrance. In fact, I don’t miss Bryant Park one bit.

My first show of the day was Lacoste where Creative Director, Christophe Lemaire showed his final collection before heading to Hermès. Although Lacoste is best known for its alligator polo tees, the French label served up some sporty chic looks.  With an 80s undercurrent, parachute jackets, pleated pants, black and white combos stood out.  The perfect wares to keep you looking cool on the tennis courts, or if you just want to look convincing as a jock. Of note was the launch of Lacoste’s first jewelry collection. In honour of the launch, resin numbered cuffs were on the seats of show goers.

From one tent to the next, I was at Cynthia Rowley. This was a signature Rowley show with eccentric styling and playful colour combos. The  same circles that decorated her invites were a theme throughout the show as cutouts on dresses and skirts. They also became 3D in the form of milk glass baubles applied to the ready-to-wear. I felt a quirky 50’s housewife vibe with A-line skirts signature Rowley polka dots and stripes.
And from one other tent to another tent, this time to see fashion darling Prabal Gurung. His star sure has sky-rocketed quickly. All the heavy weights were sitting front row to see this colour loaded collection. Colour-blocked sweaters and skirts opened the show – a casual turn for this red-carpet designer. But not to worry, there were dramatic evening dresses a plenty in turqouise, pumpkin and poppy. The skirts and dresses were all of mid-calf length which felt very new and fresh, especially for an evening dress. Surely these dresses will be on the Oscar red carpet.

Adam Lippes of Adam showed a preppy collection inspired by Charlotte Gainsbourg’s character in the film “The City of Your Final Destination”. Interpreted in to preppy suiting, wide leg pants, the ubiquitous LWD. There some great leather pieces – skirts and tees in particular and one stand out red leather dress. A-line was the skirt silhouette of choice. My favourite pieces were the high waisted coloured denim wide leg pants in shade of peach and lava.

Alexander Wang is no longer the new kid on the block at NYFW, he is now one of the most in demand designer around. The Wang show is one of the most coveted tickets of the week and all the cool kids definitely come out to support him. M.I.A was sitting front row with Lenny Kravitz and Erin Wasson.  It was a rainbow of white, chalk, sea foam, and peach. Wang’s approach is often about layering, this season it was parachute fabric dresses, drop crotch pants with knit leggings underneath, vest. It was all about mixing of textures on tonal outfits. Rose gold stripes that looked like pieces of tape decorate pants and skirts. There was also a doodle like print that was used for entire suits and jackets.

Just when you think the day couldn’t get any longer, you still have three more shows to see. Over at Milk studios I checked out Suno, a label of tribal, colourful prints. Sundresses, jackets, pants, even the Loefler Randall shoes were covered in a vivid print. This definitely a lable to watch.

Across the hall at Milk was Gary Grahams presentation. I’ve always been a fan of his feminine clothes. They ?have an eerily pretty feel to them, a  bit vintage almost with sequined dresses and floral liberty prints. But everything is layerered and cut in an off-beat silhouette to keep it all from getting to sweet.

Final stop was Altazurra. Another super star in the making, the seriously talneted and young designer showed a fiercely strong collection that opened with a exits in white satin with futuristic elements. Neon yellow and fluoro orange belts acted as accents on sharply cut dresses and jackets. Snake skin  was used as both an accent and covered entire pieces like asymmetrically hemmed skirts. Dresses featured coned breasts and some had metal necklines. Loved the jersey/snakeskin dress finale.