On the Runway

Milan Fashion Week: Roberto Cavalli, Pucci, and a Closer Look at Prada

After the absolutely stunning Jil Sander show, I headed over to the Prada headquarters for a closer look at their collection. I cherish the opportunity to inspect the fabrics (the shaggy furs), details (the thumb-sized transparent discs on the coats and dresses) and the brilliant accessories (snakeskin bags, swim-type caps and Mary Jane boots). I also get to see the whole season’s collection–some thick Lurex knits, black wool separates, fur jackets in dark autumn shades, and a range of brushed plaid wool kilts and dresses with handknit sweaters. Fall will be another solid season for Prada.

The Roberto Cavalli show is in a tent behind a spectacular arch, the Arco Della Pace. It’s his usual parade of boho hippies–fur, chiffon, lace, animal prints, sequins, brocade–all in one outfit. Add in wet bed head, raccoon eyes and pouty lips. And that’s about it.

Peter Dundas took a detour to the Alps for his sexy Swiss Miss Pucci collection. While the heavily beaded sheer or velvet cocktail dresses were couture quality, the rest of the show veered too far into a Brothers Grimm fable. Embellished capes, corseted dresses with dirndl skirts, and even new “lederhosen” were a touch too costumey. A little restraint would have given them more modern appeal.

Pucci also introduced a Capsula Uomo, a mini collection of le smoking looks for men. “Timeless luxury with a touch of rock star” said the show notes.
And that’s a wrap for tonight!