On the Runway

Milan Fashion Week: Prada's Librarian Aviator Mermaids

Miuccia Prada sets a new direction

Photography by Landov

What I love most about Prada is the unpredictability: banana prints one season, mermaid-esque pailettes the next. I’m always on the edge of my seat wondering what colour, texture and silhouette Miuccia is going to dish up. This season’s packing paper invite gave no hints. I was expecting something futuristic but what arrived was a ’60s librarian chic. I loved the opening section of cream, red and navy dresses with silver buttons. The boots throughout were fantastic: python shafts with (attached) Mary Jane shoes or metallic toe caps, and all with blocky heels. Standouts included python sack shape toppers, shaggy fur in salmon and teal, and the mermaid-esque cocktail dresses—all above the knee. Not a pair of trousers in the house. Hair and makeup was very fresh: flushed cheeks and natural lips with pulled-back hair and great furry aviator caps. All in all, another great Prada collection that will direct trends for the coming year.

See a gallery of looks from Day 2 at Milan Fashion Week: Prada, Fendi and D&G