On the Runway

Milan Fashion Week: Playing Chicken at Moschino; '70s Stilettos at Jimmy Choo

Photography by Keystone Press

Strike up the band! Moschino started the morning with a snappy military band jacket theme. Red jackets were trimmed with black braid, and navy festooned with gold and models wore officer caps and smart spectator booties. From there, the theme went on the glitz with loads of metallic knits, glittering brocades and pleated lames before heading back to tuxedos featuring blossoms of red roses. The gimmicks were light this season–Moschino is always known for running a bit crazy with a certain theme. I’m still mystified why our dear Coco Rocha was stuck wearing a realistic chicken hat! Too bad. Yet no bad eggs were laid in this effort that paid tribute to classic tailored jackets.

Today is a day to explore showrooms. First up is Bally where they’re celebrating their 160th anniversary. The setting feels like the icy Alps: mirrored floors, frosted cube platforms, white curtains to showcase over-the-knee shearling boots, curly fur booties and “hiking” boots with clasps and spikes that would work more like an ice pick than actual heel. (Remember Single White Female where the stiletto was used as a weapon? ‘Nuff said!)

Next up, Jimmy Choo. Tamara Mellon was inspired by the ’70s: Catherine Deneuve, Charlotte Rampling and Veruschka. Sexy over-the-top heels and handbags are trimmed in fur, feathers, beading and rainbow stripes. The look is all luxe and very glam (definitely “limo” shoes, you won’t be jumping out of your car in these dainties). In the next room are smart 24/7 shoes and boots—suede booties, peep-toe pumps—that are sold year-round in different hues and fabrics. Smart thinking.