On the Runway

Milan Fashion Week: Day 3 with Moschino, Etro, Ferre and Versace

Versace Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Gianfranco Ferre Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Etro Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

Moschino Spring/Summer ’11; Photo by Anthea Simms

It’s only day three of MFW, but already a few things are clear: Milan is having a love affair with the seventies; head-to-toe white looks are the best show openers; and Italian labels stay true to their heritage.

Howdy ho, partner! That could have been the Moschino anthem this season. Cowboy hats, gingham, stripes ?3D floral embellishments, peasant dresses, ruffle blouses and wedges. Phew! Threw in the iconic Moschino leather biker jacket and a little denim,and that paints the picture of this Lolita-esque show.

Some fashion week traditions die hard,  Etro pillow fights is one of them. With every seat lined with silk paisley pillows, editors are trading, switching, stealing, one woman even attempted to take the one under my bum! After all that drama, the show finally starts. Etro’s signature paisley and floral prints decorated a parade of seventies inspired pieces. From high-waisted, wide leg pants to peasant blouses, halter maxi dresses, caftans and tunic dresses. Floppy suede hats and wedges, brought the message home.

Over at Gianfranco Ferre, Tommaso Aquilano and Roberto Rimondi were inspired by “jazz and the modern rhythms of the body in motion”. You could see that inspiration most in the finale series of sparly looks. These clothes were sexy, sharp and polished. Curve hugging suits and dresses – some a nod to the great Azzedine Alaia – in a palette of mostly black and white with pops of bright pink. In an ode to the house’s heritage macarame and embroidery patterns decorated some of the silks and leathers almost looked woven.  

Having just read The House of Versace by Deborah Ball, I was excited to be back at a Versace show. The nostalgia and history alone make it a show worth seeing, let alone the glamour. With the Greek key symbol as design inspiration, this collection was structured with precise cut outs on jackets, vertical stripes, holster type backs on dresses. Fringe, which has become a key trend this season, decorated the finale dresses.

The stand out pieces for me though, were the cropped jacket, high-waisted skirt suits the bared just enough midriff to be sexy.