On the Runway

Arthur Mendonça's Smoking Hot Show

The Toronto designer's stellar, sexy show

Arthur Mendonca Fall 2012

Photo by George Pimentel

Arthur Mendonca Fall 2012

Photo by George Pimentel

Arthur Mendonca Fall 2012

Photo by George Pimentel

Arthur Mendonca Fall 2012

Photo by George Pimentel

They say good things come to those who wait. Considering Arthur Mendonça held out until the very last moment to announce he was indeed showing during Toronto’s drawn-out fashion week, this adage proved to be true. Stomping away from last season’s diaphanous Grecian dressing, he offered a stellar lineup of uniform-inspired subversions. The three P’s were firmly in check: that would be peplums, patent and PVC (by way of fetish stockings, courtesy of super-stylist/creative director George Antonopoulos). Bold bijoux by Dean Davidson always complements Mendonça’s look rather than compete. Standouts included the slick-back sweatshirt, round-sleeve patent coat (in a shade oddly reminiscent of Holts magenta), patent-bodice black plunge gown, paisley silk shift and ivory tea-length wool dress with full skirt (very Rooney Mara), paired with a jaunty bowler. Last time I talked to Mendonça, he sounded slightly stressed as he spoke of taking his fall collection in a whip-strict direction and the constant quest to improve his fit. With knife-sharp evening suits, it was mission accomplished. It must be said that, for a designer who already stands head-and-shoulders above his peers when it comes to tailoring, advanced precision propelled this line to top of the class. If you need a le smoking that makes you feeling truly piping hot as opposed to a sexless corporate lemming, Mendonça is your man.

See a gallery of Arthur Mendonça’s Fall 2012 collection

See FLARE‘s full coverage of Toronto Fashion Week