By now, the sixth day of Paris Fashion Week, trends are emerging and the season’s road map is laying itself out, especially after today’s directional collection at Celine. There was a bittersweet moment at the Galliano presentation: That very ugly incident hasn’t stopped making headline news and some are speculating that due to the controversy, this may be his last collection. But in the twenty looks that were shown on Sunday, we were reminded of what a great designer he is. Here are my top ten highlights for the day:
1. Another killer collection from Phoebe Philo at Celine. She’s perfected modern dressing–fashion forward clothes that any real woman can and would love to wear. This is luxury in its most forward state. There was a bit of a ’70s nod in coloured chevron stripes on sweaters, collies like pumpkin, ochre and green, as well as a faux wood grain print.
2. In a tie for Sunday’s stand-out piece was a colour-blocked coat at Celine in caramel, red and ochre, and a trapeze-style structured coat, also by Philo.
3. Akris also played on the off colours of the ’70s–bordeaux and mustard were highlights. Aside from the sharp tailoring and quiet luxury of this label, I was taken with a very closely sheared fur red dress, but there was also a floor length cape with a print of Viennese architect Joseph Maria Olbrich’s Wedding Tower.
4. Andrew Gn toughened up his look this season with a glamourized, beaded moto jacket and skinny legging pants. But the highlight for me was a soft and romantic blush coloured silk tulle blouse with a high ruffled collar and crystal embroidery. Oh, also loved the midnight blue pleated evening dress–such a fantastic alternative to black.
5. I’m a bit of a model junkie and I pride myself in being one of the first editors to shoot many of the hugely successful Canadian models. So it put a smile on my face to see three FLARE favorites and Canadian models Tara Gill, Kelsey Van Mook and Janice Seinen walk the runway, one after the other, at Andrew Gn.
6. The locations of shows are sometimes just as cool as the clothes. Hermès held the first showing for new designer Christophe Lemaire at the brand’s new store in the 6th arrondissement. The interior was stunning with wood sculptures made of curved wood that almost looked like bird cages.
7. Apart from the butter soft leathers and quilted patchwork jackets at Hermès, I was captivated by the live white falcon sitting atop the arm of a model wearing an all–white look of leather and cashmere.
8. It seems that curiosity and a bit of nostalgia got everyone to the Galliano presentation. In fact, it was jam-packed. The PR reps were telling everyone that they hadn’t expected so many people. I guess all the press wanted to see what the rumour mill says could potentially be Galliano’s last collection–that remains to be seen. The intimate salon style presentation wasn’t as grand or theatrical as his usual shows, but it was still a sight to be seen.
9. While the intimacy of the Galliano presentation itself was memorable, the clothes were truly beautiful, even if the situation and headlines are ugly. With only twenty looks presented, a couture shaped tweed skirt suit with frayed edges and a sheer beaded evening gown decorated sparsely decorated in marabou feathers stood out to me most.
10. Fashion week isn’t complete without at least one night of letting loose in a dark club with all the other fabulous people. This night it was the NYNY party at Regine were our very own Tommy Ton was one of a few hosts for the evening. Nicola Formichetti of Lady Gaga, and now Mugler, fame was sitting beside us while famous models, designers and editors all danced the night away.
See runway looks from Day 6 at Paris Fashion Week: Celine, Hermès, Givenchy and Kenzo