How does the man who sprayed luxury handbags with Stephen Sprouse’s neon graffiti and Takashi Murakami’s Japanese artwork perform his last rites? With a spectacular fashion funeral.
Ending a 16-year tenure at Louis Vuitton’s helm, Marc Jacobs—the designer who turned the haute establishment luggage purveyor into a style-defining culture influencer—filled the stage with references to previous sets: a glossy fountain, vintage birdcage elevators, a whirling carousel. Like his first show for the house, Jacobs’ last was noir. Models in macabre lace and jet beads (or, in the case of Edie Campbell, a beaded G-string) circled in feathered Stephen Jones headdresses—gorgeously outré reminders of his affinity for wit and spectacle. As Jacobs moved stateside to focus on his eponymous collection, his goodbye to Paris was dedicated to “the showgirl in all of us.”
But, it’s our practical selves who will see the collection’s impossibly delicate dresses and long-rise boyfriend jeans as both wardrobe mainstays and instant collectibles.