Day 5, Milan Fashion Week
The second last day of Milan fashion week is one of the most exciting, since the schedule is full of Italian heavyweights such as Dolce & Gabbana and Marni. There were sound difficulties at the Marni show I attended (some labels host two shows each season to accommodate both press and buyers) and the models walked out very late and to total silence, but all these inconveniences were quickly forgotten when I saw the ethereal and stunning looks. Classic Marni signatures such as quirky prints and flatform shoes (a recurring theme in Milan!) remain, but ruffles, oversized visors on every girl, and crop tops added a fun new twist. As usual, the prints were chic and quirky, and the colour palette spot on.
I made sure to find time between shows to stop by Canadian-but-London-based designer (and former “Fashion Star” subject) Steven Tai’s booth at the Italian Vogue young designers exhibition and preview his latest collection (he will also present it in Toronto mid-October, at The ShOws). Steven just launched accessories this season, and his shoe prototypes and one Italian-made backpack hint at a promising area of growth for this young talent.
The Dolce & Gabbana show was simply beautiful! Florals, polkadots, metallic and ladylike lace are evergreen motifs, but the collection looks fresh instead of repetitive.
The mixed use of 3-D and printed flowers, coin shapes and imagery of ancient Greek ruins works well altogether, and the silhouettes are flattering and feminine. There is a lot going on, but it all works together and the many accessories complement rather than muddy the picture.
I love that Massimiliano Giornetti’s idea of a three-piece suit for the spring Salvatore Ferragamo show is a pinstriped cropped jacket, peplum-mini skirt and trousers! That sense of playfulness added depth to what is first and foremost a chic work (or day) wear collection. Besides suiting, there were strong summer coats and jackets, pretty pleated silk dresses, attention-grabbing outerwear and crop tops in snakeskin, and a very neutral colour palette that served to highlight the quiet luxury of the clothes.
MSGM (sold at Holt Renfrew in Canada!) is one of my favourite contemporary Italian labels, so it was great to see the explosion of colour and pattern in person at the brand’s show today. The bright, cheerful t-shirt dresses, shirting, and cropped trousers are always a delight, but what really grabbed my attention were the embellished flats that accompanied every look on the runway. They’re not for everyone, but I will certainly be putting the slides on my spring wish list.