1. If you don’t have a smurf toque this fashion week, don’t even show up! Surely Cara Delevingne has given this trend such legs? Missed the best picture of her leaving Jason Wu in a red hat that matched her red jeans because Japanese photogs, looking like they’d just stepped off a Junya Watanabe runway, swarmed in front of me.
2. I tweeted that A Détacher made me feel the way Prada used to, which was a bit grandiose, because Prada still makes me feel like Prada used to. But you know what I mean! I needed to underscore the specialness. Yes, these clothes are in the man repellent vein, but maybe they would attract self hating men? Or men in reform? That could be good! Much on runways right now is add ons: strips of leather, zippers, pockets, gems, reworked, overworked. I’m a maximalist, but I’m drawn to Mona Kowalska’s simple acts of draping the body in surprising new ways. The dress up sweatpants and fringed poncho sweaters and y-seamed skirts made me feel greedy for the new, as fashion should.
3. Tommy Hilfiger took editors around his showroom individually, which is smart because it brings the designer back into this mass label with the strongest ad campaign around, the Hilfiger family fantasies. He wouldn’t let me take pictures until the show but there were clever mix and match houndstooth wool suit pieces—boxy minis, shorts with long blazers. And funny great high loafers.
4. Billy Reid had the most handsome models and served bourbon cocktails an ideal mise en scène to fall in love with his version of mix and match houndstooth and glen plaids—elegant duster over long dress both in grey plaids—and a neo ’80s power red dress with beautiful tucking on the back of the shoulders, oh and forest green velvet skinny legged suit. The men’s bags, a collabo with Coach, are looking pretty tempting for my ever increasing schleppables.
5. Everyone at the Rag and Bone show looked like they were wearing Rag and Bone and matched the cavernous industrial space (so glad there are a few of these that haven’t been turned into condos or restos!). Excellent art direction. They should plan weddings on the side. The clothes were good too—they also were tweaking houndstooth, texturizing it, oversizing it. One super smart suit, or a Charles Jacket and Woodstock pant as the show notes called it, had a micro version of the pattern. Plus, electric blue pony hair loafers.
Trends spotting: All shades of purple, varsity jacket redux, modified circle skirts at calf, half and half fabric switch-ups such as satin sleeves on wool, leather panels, skirts that change fabrics half way down; cut outs, patchwork, mullet skirts continued at Jason Wu, unexpected placement of pleats and tucks, mid calf boots. It’s hard to tell if this is Fall as there are so many short dresses and light fabrics.
Check back daily for reports from the front lines at New York Fashion Week.