Laura Siegel’s clothes are centered on ethical production and her aesthetic is soundly of the global-eco slant. To create her designs, Siegel uses artisans around the world, most who practice ancestral techniques. The work of these artisans – fabric dying and printing in India, knitting in Bolivia – is confidently injected into the clothes. The pieces have an unmistakable crafty, handmade quality.
This season’s outing had a distinct ‘from the earth’ look. The short film that ran before the show began was set in a dim and damp cave, and the collection that followed seemed to literally have been birthed from it. Like the cave, the clothes were almost entirely grey, dyed with white to give the cotton separates a mottled, pebbled effect. The pieces themselves were mostly cotton and slouchy. The best thing about Siegel’s clothes is that you can see the quality, even during a fast-paced runway show. There was a close-knit sweater with strategically placed holes and a long and airy cloak paired with a skeleton-like printed dress.
With cotton separates like these, styling is key, and this time around it was done perfectly. The pieces were layered one over the other and knotted in place, so that the light fabric never felt flimsy. Rather, each look was surprisingly substantial, with criss-crossing asymmetrical hems and accessorized with flat lace-up boots and fabric necklaces strung with antiqued metal rings. The hair and makeup didn’t hurt either: each model sported heavily blackened eyes and a crown of hair the size of their heads.
The best looks were the last few. A draped leather jacket looked like classic Rick Owens and was refreshingly paired with a long wrap skirt. Model Naro Lokuruka wore a beautiful grey and white sweater coat with a matching knit headband and circle scarf that was piled high around her neck. Voluminous knits: definitely something to look forward to for fall.