La Belle Vie: Tiyana Grulovic at Paris Fashion Week [Day 1]

Fashion Director Tiyana Grulovic dives head first into Spring 2014 collections from Anthony Vaccarello, Dries Van Noten and the final show by Rochas designer Marco Zanini

I’m a glutton for Punitions. That’s what cult Parisian bakery Poilane calls their crunchy butter cookies, my chosen form of sustenance this Paris Fashion Week.

Sustenance: Punitions from Poilane  Photo by Tiyana Grulovic
Sustenance: Punitions from Poilane
Photo by Tiyana Grulovic

I picked them up after Anthony Vaccarello’s spring 2014 show, my first of many, set in an environment where sugary gluten was forbidden. Discipline is Vacarrello’s game for next season, with looks that riffed on military adornment (those buttons) alongside thigh-skimming skirts. It was a steamy, cohesive show that recalled early Balmania in hot rod sex appeal. (To pull it off, it helps to look like Anja Rubik. Quelle punitions!)

Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Sims
Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Sims
Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Sims
Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Sims
Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Sims
Anthony Vaccarello Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Sims

Vaccarello’s lascivious minis are further indicative of a cruel summer ahead: Hemlines and tops were cropped all over London and New York runways, too. Fringe, another trend emerging on the fashion circuit, cemented itself here early on. At Guy Laroche, it appeared in futuristic raffia:

Guy Laroche Spring 2014; Photo courtesy of Anthea Simms
Guy Laroche Spring 2014; Photo courtesy of Anthea Simms

At Dries Van Noten, it formed tasseled adornments on intricately woven, world-weary tunics:

Dries Van Noten Spring 2013 Photo by Anthea Simms
Dries Van Noten Spring 2013; Photo by Anthea Simms

Van Noten employed rumpled, delicate fabrics to offset those heavy details. And can we talk about that incredible micro pleating? It created a depth and dimension that was fitting for an upscale hippie (that kind of dishabille doesn’t come cheap). At times, the pleating took on spiky, sea urchin-like forms.

Dries Van Noten Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Dries Van Noten Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms

Those same shapesa reaction to so much skin?also appeared at Rochas. Trend alert!

Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms

It was just announced that it will be Marco Zanini’s last season at the label; he’s moving to Schiaparelli and Alessandro dell’Acqua will take over as creative director. Zanini was clearly on a mission to  prove that he will be missed. He’s still on a mid-century kick from fall, but spring takes a ghostly and glossy turn. Kind of appropriate for a potential disappearing act? Anyway, the images here don’t do those frail, filmy fabrics any justice. You have to see (or buy) them for yourself:

Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Rochas Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms

 

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