In need of a typical Parisian experience after an insane weekend of shows, I find myself at Café de Flore this morning, the storied Saint Germain bistro for the fashion set. Paris is where establishment and history rule in fashion, but at the place where young Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent worked and played during their formative design years, I can’t help think about the next generation of talent. (Anyway, the Flore remains popular with the up-starts: I passed Jonathan Anderson on my way in.) New ideas and designers can flourish here—look at the waves being made by ANDAM winners Piece d’Anarchive or Sacai, the buzzy Japanese label presenting later today.
And a new-meets-old mentality is always played up at established labels. At the Roger Vivier presentation, for example, metallics and fetishy transparent PVC updated the classic Verdule:
Clothes-wise, the hits continued with micro-pleating at Chloé. I loved the way Clare Waight Keller lightened those folds in weightless dresses and then used them to build volume later on:
Meanwhile, pleats at Victor & Rolf were used to underscore the collection’s subverted private school theme. Here, kilts became elongated blazer dresses and school crests made multi-patches on crisp white shirting:
On the topic of white: Eyelets and lace appeared at Chloé and Tsumori Chisato. At both, they took on a patchworked quality that took the sweetness right out of the material. Old meets new. See?