La Belle Vie: Tiyana Grulovic at Paris Fashion Week [Days 3-4]

Fashion Director Tiyana Grulovic continues her diary from the Spring 2014 collections in Paris with a Roger Vivier presentation and shows from Chloé, Viktor and Rolf and Tsumori Chisato

 

Photos from FLARE's Instagram, follow @flaremag for an insider's look at PFW!
Photos from FLARE’s Instagram, follow @flaremag for an insider’s look at Paris Fashion Week!

In need of a typical Parisian experience after an insane weekend of shows, I find myself at Café de Flore this morning, the storied Saint Germain bistro for the fashion set. Paris is where establishment and history rule in fashion, but at the place where young Karl Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent worked and played during their formative design years, I can’t help think about the next generation of talent. (Anyway, the Flore remains popular with the up-starts: I passed Jonathan Anderson on my way in.) New ideas and designers can flourish herelook at the waves being made by ANDAM winners Piece d’Anarchive or Sacai, the buzzy Japanese label presenting later today.

And a new-meets-old mentality is always played up at established labels. At the Roger Vivier presentation, for example, metallics and fetishy transparent PVC updated the classic Verdule:

Vivier shoes
Candy-coloured metallics at Roger Vivier; Photo by Tiyana Grulovic
Paired with PVC at Roger Viver; Photo by Tiyana Grulovic
Paired with PVC at Roger Viver; Photo by Tiyana Grulovic

Clothes-wise, the hits continued with micro-pleating at Chloé. I loved the way Clare Waight Keller lightened those folds in weightless dresses and then used them to build volume later on:

Chloe Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Chloe Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Chloe Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Chloé Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms

Meanwhile, pleats at Victor & Rolf were used to underscore the collection’s subverted private school theme. Here, kilts became elongated blazer dresses and school crests made multi-patches on crisp white shirting:

Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms
Viktor and Rolf Spring 2014; Photo by Anthea Simms

On the topic of white: Eyelets and lace appeared at Chloé and Tsumori Chisato. At both, they took on a patchworked quality that took the sweetness right out of the material. Old meets new. See?

chloe-ss14w031

Tsumori Chisato Spring 2014; Photo courtesy of Style.com
Tsumori Chisato Spring 2014; Photo courtesy of Style.com

 

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