“Florals? For spring? Groundbreaking,” said a very devilish (fictional) editrix. And the sarcasm rings true for those of us in fashion. Year after year, flowered prints file down the runway, onto the racks, and, eventually into your hands with an oft-significant ring of the register. And we continue to absorb the annual display. We celebrate them—florals for spring!—as a joyous herald of the new season. This round, even the moodier labels toyed with typically saccharine bouquets. Dries Van Noten, in one of the most notable presentations in Paris—and indeed, the whole season—played with luxurious grunge and gave the ’90s reboot, dare I say it, an unexpected bedfellow in blooms that appeared to actually grow from the garments. Van Noten’s iterations burst from the clothes with exuberance that grunge, in its original rebellious incarnation, would never abide. Thus with just 55 exits, the Belgian wunderkind remade two old ideas for one new season. These 3-D florals had none of the gaudy kitsch of grandmother’s chintz—or her ceramic bushels, for that matter. Rather, the fabric blossoms had the delicacy and power of spring’s first striking stamens as they peek through the earth. Groundbreaking.
The artists’s death in 2011 has given Cy Twombly’s robust roses new emotional meaning.
Clockwise from top left: Winners sweater, $500, winners.ca. Loeffler Randall clutch, $295, loefflerrandall.com. Le Château necklace, $40, lechateau.com. Oscar de la Renta earrings, $260, net-a-porter.com. Pols Pottens porcelain vase repats the 3-D motif.