On a very snowy morning I headed all the way down to Soho for the Derek Lam show. I’m starting to feel like a ping pong ball going between the tents, Chelsea, and everywhere else and back again.
Derek Lam’s become a go-to label for luxury sportswear. With fake snowflakes falling on the runway (how apropos with the near blizzard conditions outside), Lam introduces us to the modern cowgirl. Clean modern silhouettes in gray, camel, and black, along with leather pants, fur coats, and trench style jackets with leather panels. One of my favourite pieces is a leather skirt with pleated silk side panels. Even the western touches like fringe, native prints and wide brim fedoras are graphic and tough rather than boho.
Red is the only flash of colour and the only eveningwear pieces are two draped jersey gowns—one black, one white. I really like this show, it focused and modern, clean and fresh, which seems to be the direction fashion is headed right now.
I’m in cab headed all the way back uptown—having anxiety about missing the Vera Wang show. Luckily, everyone else is stuck in crippling snow, so I make it just in time. Wang’s show notes cite film noir as the theme, so I’m not surprised to see a succession of gorgeous black looks open the show. In true Vera Wang form, pieces are beautifully draped, pinned and tucked.
I’m loving the wool coat with mongolian fur bottom half. Every designer has done a fur/wool hybrid coat this season. There’s a lot 3D decoration in rosettes, oversized pailletes, layered ruffles, dense sequins and sheer madd puffs of fabric. A gauzy sheer skirt worn with knit thigh highs stocking feels very sexy. Tangled layers of pearl necklaces are described by Wang as disheveled glamour. I always feel like Vera’s clothes would be right at home on the stage at the Ballet Russe.
I’m back in Chelsea for the Rodarte show. This is one show I really look forward to each season. Laura and Kate Mulleavy have focused on a macabre aesthetic lately with dark horror film and tribal influences. So everyone is curious what they will do next but also how they are going to parlay this very niche line into a fully branded business.
While this season’s show is still savage and raw with unfinished edges and patchwork fabrics, it is certainly lighter, prettier and more ethereal with an eerie beauty to it. Wallpaper florals and white lace and plaids are are pieced together, twisted and draped to create layered, flowing looks. Natalie Portman is sitting across the runway from me and from the look on her face, she is loving this lighter look.
Max Azria is the third and final show under the Azria umbrella. All week I have been seeing the influence of Phoebe Philo’s clean, modernist collection at Celine and the Max Azria label does an amazing job of bringing these minimalist and polished looks to a much more accessible platform. I love this collection so much I’m placing my personal order with the PR contact directly after the show. Leather t-shirts, perfect fit leather leggings in soft gray and nude hues, and sharply cut jackets and coats. All in a refreshing palette of dove gray, warm ivory,and tan. I even love the graphic wedge heels.
Last night’s Marc Jacobs show may have been the main attraction, but tons of MJ fans show up to see his lower priced, more accessible line, Marc by Marc Jacobs. One doesn’t expect the head turning fashion of the collection label, but rather an assortment of fun, playful pieces that are a great alternative to fast fashion chains. War-era looking military pea coats, wool jackets and A-line skirt suits, along with wrap coats in bold bright stripes, cute kitten heels and metallic brogues are just a few of my favourite things.
Over at Diesel Black Gold Label, I’m curious to see what Parisien-based high fashion designer, Sophia Kokosalaki does with the label. It’s Diesel, so of course denim is the main message, only with leather trim on denim shirts, tumble washed jeans and rock and roll acessories.
I’m the only Canadian editor to check out CFDA Fashion Fund winner Sophie Theallet. Since winning the award, interest in her label has increased and insiders are watching curiously to see how the label develops. With former stints at Alaia and Gaultier, expectations are high.
What comes out are french country chic looks with floral print cottons, apron-like skirts, soft peasant blouses and beautifully pleated, belted dresses and a shearling coat with a folklore print trim. I can picture a rustic chic woman wearing one of these looks as she pedals her bike along a country road.