It’s been bitterly cold in Paris—ironic since it was a balmy 10 degrees at home. But Karl Lagerfeld was reason enough to get fickle fashion types out on a Sunday morning. At his own collection, Lagerfeld showed lacquered pencil skirts and leggings paired with sharp black jackets. A collection of great jackets and pants with his signature LBDs. The hair was teased in to crazy beehives with patent headbands. Bright red laps were the only colour at this all black show. And Erin Wasson walked the runway (she’s been doing a few shows this season).
A quick stop in to see Andrew Gn before heading to the much anticipated Celine show. Gn can always be relied upon to give women sophisticated, embellished luxury, and that’s what he did again this season with strong dresses and formal separates.
Phoebe Philo brought dying label Celine back to life last season. With her clean modernist approach, she resuscitated fashion into a forward, graphic, modern movement that was much needed after seasons of spikes, embellishments and over-the-top looks. Her influence was seen all over the NY and Milan runways, and here in Paris, as well. So – needless to say – there was a lot of anticipation over what she would do this season.
Held at the Paris Tennis Club in the outskirts of the city, the space was as minimal and airy as her aesthetic. Streamlined navy peacoats opened the show and set the mood for a navy, military inspiration. Silhouettes were streamlined, but with interesting texture in sheepskin capes and coats, leather patch pockets, sheer white lace, and simple fringe along the collar of a tailed cream shirt. This collection was utterly chic and so current—clearly setting the new direction in fashion. These are clothes you wear for life.
From Celine, I was off to Costume National. Unfortunately, I can’t say much for the clothes as I could barely see them. With only a standing ticket and rude, pushy security guards I was relegated to the back of the room. (One of the least glamorous moments of the week.) From what I could see, there was shearling-trimmed leather in earthy colours, silver lamé tailored trousers, and boucle wools with sheer back panels. Quite a downer from Celine.
Next up, Hussein Chalayan. Before the show started a pre-recorded message from Chalayan, paying tribute to Lee Alexander McQueen, played. Amongst other great things, he said McQueen’s sensitivity was his genius. So sad to think we will never be moved by his genius again.
Chalayan showed a variety of looks from boxy blazers with jeans and sneakers, to crochet ruffled leather jackets and long black column gowns, which is the most eveningwear I’ve ever seen him do. Those expecting avant-guarde futuristic techno clothes were surprised to see some mature, wearable pieces.
My last show of the day was Sonia Rykiel. The great legend herself was sitting front row beside Beth Ditto—interesting duo. Rykiels daughter Nathalie now designs the label and I thought she brought out a beautiful collection that felt new and different for the label. There were still signature knits and fab fur coats, but the earthy colour palette and boxy, oversized menswear suits felts fresh. I always love this show for the energy—models are encouraged to smile and show their personalities, which makes the clothes that much more fun. A finale of models wearing Marabou feathered coats topped it off nicely.
In between all of those shows, I managed to run in to Pierre Hardy’s showroom to check out some great shoes for fall. I love them all every season, but what caught my eye most were the fur tongued rubber tread boots – perfect for our Canadian climates – and blush pink party shoes with Swarovksi bedazzled heels.
As exhausted as I was, I made a rare club appearance at the famous Le Regine to celebrate Paris Fashoin Week and Tommy Ton’s birthday. So glad I went – I was rubbing shoulders (literally because the place was so packed) with heavy weights like Alexander Wang, Daria Werbowy, Erin Wasson, Stefano Pilatti, Rad Hourani and more!