Another gorgeous day in Milan. My first show is Max Mara out at the Fiera.
Often times, fall collections in New York and Paris feature as many breezy dresses as their spring lines. In Milan, the focus has been squarely on the cold with lush furs, rich wools and thick knits. Max Mara is a perfect example – a collection highlighting sweeping military-inspired coats with rows of buttons, epaulets, functional pockets and army belts with pouches strapped to the back. Not earth-shattering trend worthy by any means but gorgeous and wearable. I particularly like the grey military suit worn by Sasha Pivovarova with its fluted peplum back.
Next, it seems we’re driving for ages to the outskirts of Milan for the Etro show. Velvet, patterned, metallic pillows line the benches. Some eager editors are gathering them up in piles – never mind who they’re intended for. Versace used to offer pillow at their shows too. Once someone yanked mine out from under me – while I was sitting on it!
Etro is the master of prints in a rich mix of paisleys, florals and stripes for both men and women. This collection was a more subdued mix and clash than usual. The second outfit was a stunning draped Avatar blue dress. Several of the furs were outstanding including a feathered pattern topper and plush turquoise belted jacket. Lovely collection overall that seemed to go on and on though.
Now heading back to the hotel for a quick pit stop to drop off my three Etro pillows. My car mates gave me theirs 🙂
I slip into Armani’s signature Collezione show right behind a vampire. Ashley Green who plays Alice Cullen in Twilight is wearing a navy coat and fucshia satin heels. Clive Owen is also here but those praying for Lady Gaga are disappointed. While I loved their collaboration for the Grammy’s – Armani custom made Gaga’s outfits – it doesn’t make a lot of sense. As odd as, say, Rihanna and Ralph Lauren or Ke$ha and Carolina Herrera.
One can’t go to Armani and expect anything but his usual (and perfectly beautiful) parade of expertly cut suits, soft dresses and luxe gowns. This season was called “The New Chic” but it looked like his same old chic to me – and I don’t say that negatively. One misstep was an orange and black segment that looked too Halloween. Paired with grey, the season’s key neutral, it would have been much better.
Back at my hotel, I bump into John Donato and Oribe who’ve just returned from doing the hair at the show. They’re exhausted but triumphant. Hair was changed last minute and then switched back. Sounds chaotic but normal when working with a perfectionist.
Next stop Gucci where I bumped into the Anna Wintour protestors. She entered through a back door and just turned down an interview with Fashion TV. All requests have to go through her bodyguard first. Rachel Zoe and Ashley Green are here too.
Gucci was a little more subdued than past seasons which have been a riot of colour and pattern. The show kicked off with all-white dresses and toppers – with white tights and shoes. Ugh. Please don’t try that at home unless you work in an institution. The palette then warmed up to soft tones – camels, taupe, caramel, grey. The season’s ubiquitous camel topper was here but rocked up Gucci style with feathered sleeves. The finale of black dresses incorporated a sheer python print, sequins and feathers. Lace tights – admittedly a pet peeve of mine – were worn with everything. Not one of my favourite Gucci collections but the perfect place to buy a camel coat.
And earlier – I stopped by Moschino hopelessly late. Place was packed, my seat was gone and the standing area was packed like tweens at a Justin Bieber concert. I left.
Last stop tonight – dinner with friends!