Saturdays at fashion week mean you’ll inevitably see most editors accompanied by their kids, and this is certainly the case at Peter Som. Som has developed a signature look over the last few seasons with clashing prints and substantial fur pieces. Fur is the major statement of this collection with full fur coats in short hair, lambs fur, and astrocan, in colours like teal, eggplant and pink. Prints are mixed and matched with abstract digitals, large-scale leopard and war-era florals.
At bridge line Adam, aviator-style leather jackets are paired with chunky knits and light weight long evening wear. More fur here with fur-sleeved jackets, a functional fur-lined cargo jacket. The pants – as also seen at other collections – are high-waisted and pleated – reminiscent of the 80’s. Gray is becoming a fashion week staple in everything from knits to flannel wool suiting.
Thankfully the celebrity presence has been next to none, and the shows are all actually starting at half past, rather than the one-hour waits we are becoming accustomed to.
Blogger phenom Bryan Boy has been at all of the shows, and front row at that.
Between the meteoric rise of bloggers and overwhelming popularity of new designers such as Prabal Garung, overnight success is now a reality in the fashion world.
Prabal Garung has established himself as a red carpet go-to and editor fave in a very short time. Unsurprisingly, Rachel Zoe was front row (what does it mean that she’s as much a celeb as her clients?). She and Avatar‘s Zoe Saldana fulfilled the celebrity quota.
The show started off with strong seperates and coats, colour blocked in white/black and camel/cream with hits of red. The silhouettes were very architectual and exaggerated. And it wouldn’t be a fall collection without fur: surface embellishments and distressed metallics were the garnish of choice.
Over at Alexander Wang, Natalyia Vodianvova opened the show – which, in hindsight, was telling of what was to come. It appears as though the Wang girl had grown up—pinstripe suiting, grey and camel wool seperates, velevet and lace dresses, and ankle length skirts gave the collection a more sophisticated spin. Don’t get me wrong, the distinct Wang toughness was still there with sharp leather pieces and deconstructed silhouettes and cutouts. The handbag was replaced with the backpack. Some of my favourite pieces were covered in gold nailheads.
Also of note? Agyness Deyn made her return to the runway.
I’m wrapping this really busy day at Altuzzara. In just two seasons Joseph Altazurra has become an industry favourite. His breakout moment happened when Carine Roitfeld wore his white fur-trimmed coat last year and since retailers and fashion heavyweights like Anna Wintour have jumped on board, watching him and his potential.
It’s a full house with fellow designer Alexander Wang sitting front row (mind you, mere hours after his own show—how does he have the energy to be here? Oh right, he’s 25 years old!) This Altazurra collection is a complete 180 degree turn from last season’s frilly prairie girl look. These looks are dark, ominous, and full of S&M references—so amazing!
The opening sequence is a collection of black coats and jackets decorated with long black horse hair collars. Shearling collared fur coats, wide corset belts, tight patchwork leather dresses and bodysuits define this hard and sexy show. The pants are extra long, covering pointed stilleto shoes. Vanessa Traina makes an encore performance on the runway.
The parade of black looks is broken up with a series of nude dresses under black coats which creates a wonderfully sexy contrast. One amazing pant suit is best described as galactic with a brilliant twinkle fabric.
The finale of blood red velvet suits is a perfect ode to Valentine’s Day tomorrow. They’re also very reminiscent of Tom Ford’s early Gucci days. A dramatic exit of red evening dresses with lace-up cutouts—the perfect ending to a strong show.