Today is a super busy day. Barely any shows at the tents, which means I’ll be running all over the city. I’m starting off at Ruffian, where fellow Canadian Claude Morais is showing with partner Brian Wok. It’s a mature, ladylike show with the hard twist here and there with leather pants.
Next it’s Yigal Azrouël. I’m really liking this collection – he’s put a harder edge to his easy nomadic chic, distressed looking leathers, embellishments, the colour red, high waisted pleated leather pants and lots of grey.
Former FLARE cover girl, Malin Akerman is front row and blogger Bryan Boy is being snapped by the photogs in his ostentatious way.
Everyone wants to be a street style shooter. So many sartorial snappers, I’ve lost count. Wonder if that phenomenon will come to an end or how it will evolve. It just adds to the pressure of getting dressed in the morning.
At Jason Wu right now where they have transformed a vast warehouse space into a cozy, purple curtained tent. With the meditative classical music on the sound system. It feels a bit womb-like, in a good way.
I can hear the models getting their pep talk behind the curtain….
At Jason Wu and absolutely loving this collection! It’s his best yet. He’s really evolved from just dresses to excellently cut separates. There was tons of texture—mohair and wool coats, distressed metallic applique, feathered skirts, autumnal colours (mustard, tan, navy) and chunky cashmere knit scarves.
His signature party dresses featured a low waisted drindle skirt dress, puffy crinoline dress, trapeze dress – kind of looks like couture dolls clothes – coincidence? Probably not since he has his own doll line. Need a party dress, he’s your guy!
At Preen – one of my favourite NY based labels. Their popularity with everyone has notably increased. Julia Restoin Roitfeld, Theodora (or is it Alexandra?) Richards and Leigh Lezark line the front row along with other cool downtown It-girls while floral prints, neon flashes, cutouts and big shouldered cocoon shaped coats line the runway. When a croc-print fur coat makes it’s debut, there are collective gasps and OMG’s—to die for! The colour palette is limited to muted lilac, black, navy, gray and white. Surprisingly there’s a killer jumpsuit still in the lineup—I thought their shelf life was short but guess not.
At Rag and Bone the story reads like modern day English hunting outfits with plaids checks, highland tweeds and wools. There are textured knits and fur trimmed hooded coats – Also seen at Wu – with lots of gray and knee high socks. Neck mufflers top off the whole look.
The most genius piece is a great coat with a fur lower half that unzips leaving a sharp wool jacket. Camouflage and hip belts with utility pouches finish of the utilitarian look. Overall a very strong collection.
In the madness of NY Fashion Week, I was able to preview two great Canadian labels, Jeremy Laing and Rita Leifhebber.
Jeremy has introduced fur into his collection and it’s beautiful. It adds depth and luxury that will undoubtedly take his collection to the next level. I’ve always been a fan of Jeremy’s and championed his work from the get-go, and I would love to see his label expand into a great retail success. (Buy more Canadian!!!)
This is Rita Leifhebber’s second season. She took a very indie route in showing her collection in a panel truck in a lumberyard down the street from Milk Studios. The collection was small and tightly edited. Two reversible toppers caught my eye along with the hand woven knits. A beautiful video produced by FLARE photog, Norman Wong, acted as a lovely backdrop.
One more show to go – Charlotte Ronson – and this crazy day will happily come to and end.