I missed the official day two of LFW on Saturday, but this morning I took the train down from Leeds (in the north of England) and straight over to the Matthew Williamson show to get the day started right.
Tucked away near St. James Park, the venue was one of those spectacular buildings that are fairly common place in London. Walking into Lawrence Hall the walls were covered in colour blocks of the palette we were about to see. Sienna Miller sat front row, showing consistent support for the designer.
Sumptuous colours like persimmon, marigold, turquoise, coral, royal blue, soft greys, maroon, and burnt orange streamed down the catwalk. Kicking off the show was a lovely tweed coat with a large ruffle spilling down the front, a detail seen throughout the show on suede jackets, knits and dresses. Every coat had a layered effect with many topped by fur vests or boleros. Moto pants and leather jackets showed a softer biker babe. Short skater skirts, dohti pants and bold shoulders are carried on from last season. There was much of his print master work at play, such as a watercolour effect ikat print. But the standout pieces were in the solids. A beautiful coral suede cropped leather jacket is on my wish list.
Transportation to the next show arrived in a cool silver bullet Mercedes van provided by the lovely BFC. We sped by Olivia Palermo posing for street style shutterbugs and headed on over the Thames to Somerset House for Todd Lynn. Sitting on our seats was a rather exciting announcement that he’ll be releasing a bio documentary film to the press in April called Fashion Phoenix. It’s being screened at a few film festivals before then so let’s hope it gets picked up so we can all see it in theatres.
Shouting and flashbulbs popping turned everyone’s attention to the arrival of Janet Jackson in the front row. He’s always had legendary rock and roll clients, but seeing Janet herself in a killer Todd Lynn ensemble is especially thrilling. Wardrobe for her next concert tour perhaps? She looked fabulous in red lips and a short curly do. A few people down, the ever chic Julia Restoin-Roitfeld was cuddling with a her handsome man.
Hitting the runway in a brooding fashion, the impeccable and sharp tailoring Todd is so well known for had that futuristic edge it always does but with a natural effect. His woodland warriors stomped in soft hues of stone and forest green, calf skin jackets in luscious khaki. Structured leather shoulders and enormous fur boleros showed that the bold shoulder isn’t going anywhere. Layered knits felt new for Lynn and were a stunning and wearable idea. Funnel collars on cocoon coats and moto jackets were some of his staples. The innovation in construction was also here with cool jackets made up of woven leather slats that were almost orbiting the body and hard leather pleated details on coats that mimicked the look of armour.
Walked over to the next show, Louise Goldin with style bloggers Tommy Ton and Susie Bubble, who was constantly stopped for photographs of cool neon sneaker platforms. We made our way through the chaos of the BAFTAs which were being held right next to the Topshop show space.
Louise Goldin was one of the most talked about young designers last season, and she didn’t disappoint for this effort. A brilliant show with a palette of army green (get something this colour for fall as it’s being shown everywhere), black and navy. Leather panelling on tightly cropped utility jackets, Jetsons circle mini skirts and cocoon coats were on the menu. There was a beautiful heavy quality to the wool and quilted wool and I loved the red, blue and yellow sequin hot pants worn in each look. The shapes were the standout. Such interesting angled peplums, structured corsets and jackets. Beautiful.
Meadham Kirchhoff was the last show of the day and I was anticipating a knock out with a packed house and their great press last season. The first set of looks covered in black lace veils and crowns, followed by candy colour tiaras was definitely unexpected. The whole show was a mishmash of vintage, costume box, club kid and goth. A couple of sweaters with embellishment were pretty, but always covered by sheer sheaths or long vintage dresses. There seemed to be a consensus of being stumped by the whole thing.
So on to something a little more fun. Headed to the Mulberry party which was held in the beautiful Holland Park at the Orangery. Cool new band Delphic played as the who’s who of British fashion and a few local celebs (plus Olivia Palermo) danced, took photos with Mulberry sashes in front of crystal encrusted panther statues. Only at fashion week!