Days 1 & 2
Hello London! How perfectly English it’s been here for the first two days of fashion week. The days (and nights) have been rainy and chilly (I didn’t bring tights and will live to regret it), while the runways stand in stark contrast—feminine, bright, light and, for the most part, fun.
Londoners themselves seem to revel in fashion week. Two designers I interviewed this morning said they got just three hours of sleep last night (the after party and the after-after party) and I’ve heard multiple front row-goers complain of a deathly hangover (at a six-in-the-evening show no less). This energy feeds into the runway. Models smiled brightly at the first show this morning, Sister by Sibling, where the first one out wore a loud pink t-shirt (with cheek-revealing denim panties) that read “Lead Sister” in black capitals.
At many of the shows, there is a tension between the girl and the woman. Pastels are out in full force—a hangover from fall perhaps. Here, at Felder Felder in baby blue.
Even at Jean-Pierre Braganza, who usually sticks to graphic figurative prints (those were there too), pink was a predominant motif.
The wrap skirt too is something to look out for this spring: at Braganza again, but also in a very structured iteration at David Koma and a sweeter version at Ostwald Helgason. (Look out for the latter’s Aldo collaboration, which includes bags for the first time.)
So far, the London girl is just that: young and sweet and slightly juvenile. Markus Lupfer went so far as to set his presentation in a tweenage room, complete with boy band posters and Titanic-era Leos pasted to the walls. His clothes were nothing short of adorable, with cat prints and abbreviated denim skirts. At the same time, there are many women who will feel perfectly comfortable in his pinafores, myself included.
The tension between girl and woman was greatest at House of Holland. With It girls sitting front row, from Alexa Chung to Kelly Osbourne (along with one much lusted over It boy—Mr. Styles, anyone?), Henry Holland marched a Lolita-esque girl up and down the runway. Inspired by Mexico, by way of Venice Beach and Baz Luhrmann’s Romeo + Juliette (Leo may be the most unexpected reference of fashion week so far), the frocks were bedecked with tattooed rosettes and trimmed in seductive lace frills. It was a fully feminine collection scattered with ‘50s housedresses, injected with in-your-face sex appeal. I’m smitten, London.