Goodbye London Fashion Week, it’s been lovely.
It ended with the bang of Meadham Kirchhoff’s broken wonderland. It was a pastoral meets Medieval meets Spanish meets storybook fantasy collection set in what looked like a ruined secret garden with thorny roses strewn all over the runway. The clothes included embroidery-rich dresses, snakeskin overcoats and baggy, under arm-reaching gloves, as well as technically stunning laser-cut skirts and impossibly fine lace. It was all accentuated by the models’ bright blonde or red braided wigs and wide-brimmed hats.
The best shows of the day were Thomas Tait and Simone Rocha. The latter was the beautiful and decadent, but offset with awkward proportions and sliced fabric. The models were bedecked with pearls, which trimmed nylon socks, frocks and necks. The last looks were the most interesting and verged on archival Commes des Garcons with shrouded brides covered in flesh-coloured mesh.
Once again, as with the majority of shows in London, sheerness was a running theme. Rocha paired sheer nude t-shirts with full black skirts so that the models looked topless.
Thomas Tait showed sheer shirts also. His collection was as strict and clean-lined as usual, and tops were pin-tucked at the sides to create sheer, flat breastplates. While synth music played in a drafty mansion in Belgravia, he presented looks first that were all white and then layered over with pastels and lime green—not with chiffon as with many other designers, but with a fabric that resembled a plastic bag. A Rainbow Brite embellished white perfecto was also a stand out.