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For a house whose dictum has always been understated luxury, Hermès has been known to harness some fairly risky design talent—the conceptual Martin Margiela and the outré Jean Paul Gaultier among them. But the appointment of heretofore unknown Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski is as on point as it gets. With a CV that counts positions at Phoebe Philo’s Céline and, most recently, The Row, the 37-year-old French designer earned her fashion stripes through the thickets of theoretical minimalism. Her first runway show for Hermès proved that she and the storied house are simpatico, with clean lines, functional silhouettes and a vaguely masculine aesthetic.