Mining for beauty
Literally, makeup derived from rock, mineral makeup has long been regaled as the “skin-care makeup” that’s good for your skin. Now, following leaps in cosmetic innovation, this once “granola” makeup genre is in the hands of top makeup artists – and mainstream stores, too. Here’s why you should grab hold.
1. Sensitive eyes
PROBLEM: You like your mascara Factory Girl-thick and it sometimes irritates your contact lenses.
SOLUTION: “Mineral mascara goes on like a stain, delivering true pigment and inky drama without the fallout,” says Joanna Schlip, celebrity makeup artist (to stars including Jessica Simpson) for Physicians Formula. So you can layer and layer without causing flakes that can stick to your contact lenses like glue.
FLARE’s pick: Dr.Hauschka Mascara in Black, $30.
2. You want more sun protection
PROBLEM: You’d like all-day sun protection that goes beyond your morning spread of daily moisturizer with SPF 15.
SOLUTION: Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, key ingredients in mineral makeup, have been found to block UVA and UVB rays. Avanya Natural Mineral Cosmetics products have even been approved by the U.S. Food and Drug Administration with an SPF of 20. In Canada, we consider it an excellent complement to our daily SPF-slathering regimen. Because, as Toronto dermatologist Dr. Sandy Skotnicki-Grant says, “Sunscreen is still the best solution for antiaging.”
FLARE’s pick: Youngblood Mineral Cosmetics Mineral Radiance in Sunshine, $42.
3. Liner that loses it’s oomph
PROBLEM: You’re addicted to bad-girl black eyeliner and can’t stand it when the colour goes on brown or grey.
SOLUTION: The absence of fillers means deeper, richer black pigment with a difference you can see. “Black eyeshadows and liners with talc appear dark brown because of talc’s muddying effect,” says Schlip. The anti-inflammatory property inherent in minerals means less puffiness around sensitive eyes, too (especially when you’re lining your inner eyelids).
FLARE’s pick: Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-Free Mineral Eye Liner Pencil in Black, $12. (Bonus: it comes with an antibacterial smudger and sharpener built-in.)
4. Disappearing makeup
PROBLEM: The DJ is just warming up and your makeup is already cutting loose.
SOLUTION: Crushed minerals are melt-proof and water-resistant, so once they’re on, they won’t go anywhere until washed off. “Your makeup slips off when you’re secreting oil,” says Dr. Joan Baijnath, a physician and developer of Avanya Natural Mineral Cosmetics. “Mineral makeup binds with the oils, so you don’t need as many touch-ups.”
FLARE’s pick: Bare Escentuals BareMinerals Tutorials in Smoky Eye, $40. (Bonus: it comes complete with a light, shimmery eyeshadow shade, a deep opaque shadow, an applicator brush and directions.)
5. Sensitive skin
PROBLEM: You’ve got sensitive skin-occasional redness and broken capillaries are dead giveaways.
SOLUTION: Schlip relies on mineral makeup for her celebrity clientele, especially during awards-show season. “Actors may work for hours on set in heavy theatrical makeup,” she explains. “By the time awards season hits, I know I can rely on mineral makeup because it’s less likely to cause swelling or redness.”
FLARE’s pick: Jane Be Pure Mineral Makeup in Colorless, approximately $8. (Bonus: it’s a bargain.)
6. Adult acne
PROBLEM: You’re 30 years old and still zitty (every 28 days).
SOLUTION: Mineral makeup is ideal for oily, acne-prone skin. “It doesn’t contain oil and it absorbs it,” says Dr. Skotnicki-Grant. It won’t clog pores or cause breakouts, either. Plus, anti-inflammatory properties tone down the swelling and redness of pimples.
FLARE’s pick: La Bella Donna Mineral Eraser in Number 1, approximately $35.
7. Chalky skin
PROBLEM: Many makeup powders look chalky on dark skin.
SOLUTION: Talc, that inexpensive filler present in many loose powders, is a common culprit. Quality mineral-makeup brands use mica instead, though it gets a bad rap in part because of its high-shimmer effect. But with the latest innovation in mineral-makeup production, mica is jet-milled into a smooth, fine form for a lightweight finish. “It can be worn on the darkest complexion without looking ashy,” says Dr. Baijnath.
FLARE’s pick: Cover FX Mineral FX, $37. (Bonus: it comes in 21 shades.)
8. Fine lines
PROBLEM: You’ve got fine lines that trap makeup.
SOLUTION: Mineral makeup is lightweight, so it’s less likely to settle into pores and fine lines. Once applied, it sets within seconds, which can take some getting used to. “I’ve heard complaints about making mistakes that are harder to correct, but I love that it doesn’t move,” says Dr. Baijnath. “Once you get used to it, it’s easy.” A good rule of thumb is to swirl your brush, tap off the excess makeup and tap it on.
FLARE’s pick: Avanya Loose Mineral Blush in Mulberry Magic, $27.
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