Milan Fashion Week

Flare’s Market Editor, Tammy Palmer, reports on Fall Fashions live from Milan


Milan Fashion Week – Fall 2006 Collections
Flare’s Market Editor, Tammy Palmer, reports live from Milan

Saturday, February 25th

Last day at the shows. I’m sad but relieved because it’s still raining and my favorite shows are over. The Missoni show at 10am is nice. Margherita Missoni is doing the front row pr thing. She certainly is charming the pants off everyone here. The music is great- extended unplugged of Sting’s Roxanne. Loving this. One more show. It’s Cavalli which is always packed beyond. I will definitely get my toes crushed here. See some of Italy’s figure skating stars in the audience. Apparently Anne Hathaway is here. The best music here. Too bad I can’t ID it . The show is Paul Poiret-ish..lots of slinky bathrobes and drop waists here. That’s it. Time to squeeze in a bit of shopping before my 4am wakeup call. Run over to Miu Miu and ask for a 39 in a black patent pumps. She laughs at me. Not a 39 to be had in this town. Oh well. You win some, you lose some.

Highlights:

Favorite show: Burberry
Biggest star sighting: A tie – Sienna Miller and Kate Moss
Favorite music: Versace
Best shoes and accessories: Prada
Most sought-after ticket: Prada
Worst venue: Roberto Cavalli
Biggest mishap: Fendi (when the photo-pit stand collapsed)

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Feb 25 • Feb 24 Feb 23Feb 22Feb 21 Feb 20

Friday, February 24th

It’s pouring today. What a surprise. I’m sitting at the Sportmax show at the Fiera (main venue for fashion week) and it’s freezing here. Bare legs aren’t cutting it anymore. The runway is covered in something that is supposed to be… moss? And tons of leaves. It’s a great show. Love the voluminous belted trench and olive green patent accessories. There is more leopard here. It’s everywhere really. The aggressive-urban look is the big trend here in Milan.

Off to showroom appointments. In between nibbling on tiny salmon sandwhiches I browse the fall line of Jimmy Choo. The chic London PR girl tells me that the Malhalla bag will be the ‘it’ bag for fall. Girls- place your orders. Who cares what it looks like, right? The shoes are stunning- lots of patent here.

I’m now at Dsquared. This will be a fun show. The Willowdale boys, Dean and Dan, always have great productions. I’m seated right beside the huge stage. The girls (and guys) are straight out of National Velvet with velvet riding jackets and hats. It’s a fun show. Canadian girl Stam looks fantastic. The show finishes to an amazing finale to the tune of Laura Branigan’s Gloria- haven’t heard that in a while. I leap out of my seat when the show finishes and dash out onto the puddle-invested street. My driver isn’t anywhere to be found. Probably because I’m in the wrong spot. Now I’m soaked.

Versace finishes the day with a spectacular show (with Daria opening). It’s glossy, sporty Bond girl looks here. Skin-tight scuba-esque dresses in pretty colours. At dinner afterwards, an AP reporter tells me that Keira Knightly and David Furnish were both at the 6pm show. I’m devastated.

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Feb 25 • Feb 24 • Feb 23Feb 22Feb 21 Feb 20

Thursday, February 23rd

I can actually see blue sky today. Miraculous! It puts the normally sullen fashion crowd in a slighly happier place. We land at the Fiera (the main venue) for MaxMara. This show has some buzz. We hear that Carine Rotfield (Editor in Chief of Paris Vogue) will be styling this show. Should be slightly edgier than season’s before. The venue is positively packed. I keep getting hit in the head with a gigantic shoulder bag. Bruising on the temples. It’s the eighties today. Sequin minis atop black leggings and black stilletto pumps. Love the grey knit tunics. Trish Goff looks great here in grey pinstripe.

I run into several showrooms. Today I’m visiting more shoe designer showrooms. Fall is looking spectacular. Everyone is to buy lacquered platform heels for fall. I hop on over to the Dolce & Gabbana show. It’s a long wait. I chat with an American editor who is seven months pregnant. I suddenly feel less tired today. What’s the holdup? Oh wait, it’s JLo. I only see her silhouette amidst a haze of flashbulbs. The show opens to models appearing from beneath the stage on what looks like a revolving circular staircase. It’s beautiful. The finale is stunning with the best girls sauntering out in ballet slippers with empire waist lace gowns.

Fendi is next. I can’t keep my eyes off the row across from me. It’s Andre Leon Talley from American Vogue. Bernard Arnault (of the LVMH group)and his beautiful wife Delphine are here. Photographer Patrick Demarchelier sits a few seats away. It’s a pretty collection. The B bags simply keep getting better and better. Burberry is at 6 pm. This is one of my favorites. Worth the wait. I hear that someone great will be here. Oh yes, Kate Moss flies in. Now this is exciting! She’s in a cropped black leather jacket and slim skirt. She sits next to Jefferson Hack (editor of Dazed and Confused). Mario Testino (very handsome) is a few seats away. A platinum blond Stella Tennent opens the show. It’s pretty prints and knits for fall. Moschino ends the day and what an end. It’s positively jammed packed here. The show is now running one hour late. I’m wondering when I can get out of here to watch the finale of the ladies figure skating. Go Sasha Cohen. (you really need to focus on something when your toes are constantly being crushed here). The show is held for Marilyn Manson and Dita Von Teese who leap across the middle of the runway to get their seats. Fun! It’s scottish tartans here. Love this show to death. Daria looks standout.

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Feb 25 Feb 24 • Feb 23 • Feb 22Feb 21 Feb 20

Wednesday, February 22nd

It’s cold and rainy again – yikes. I’m off to Pringle of Scotland which is known for its argyle sweaters. They have a new designer- of the Tom Ford era. She pulls off a great collection of knitwear- beautiful swing cut cable cardigans which look so warm. I’m freezing so I want to rip it off Gemma Ward’s tiny body. I hop in the taxi and scoot over to the Fiera, which is the main venue for Fashion Week. Etro is showing here. It’s a nice show – a bit of a mix really. Think Burberry meets Marni. Love the glitterly diamante clips and headbands that the models are wearing.

Alberta Ferretti is next at 2pm. Shows haven’t started on time all week. We stand outside for nearly 45 minutes but it was worth the wait. It’s a beautiful collection of skirtsuits and silk pleat dresses. Navy, brown, camel and purple are the colors everywhere here. Carmen Kass looks stunning. Canadian girl Stam is one of the best here. Carine Rotfield (Editor-in-Chief of Paris Vogue) makes her appearance in a slim fitting Balenciaga suit.

Time to pop into Prada, Miu Miu and Frette (it’s not all about the clothes).

The shows are running so late that the 6pm Gucci show is bound to start around… 6:45? We (other Canadian jounalists and myself) think that a 6:20 arrival time is perfect. We can mull about and people watch. Not exactly. The handsome doorman sternly says, “Hurry- the show is about to start!” You’re kidding, right? We run (thank goodness Chanel pumps are quite sturdy) to our seats and plop ourselves down on mirrored benches. It’s disco seventies here. The models have attitude, big hair, and are bejewled in bling. The Tom Ford sexy glamazon is back.

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Feb 25 Feb 24 Feb 23 • Feb 22 • Feb 21 Feb 20

Tuesday, February 21st

It’s very very chilly here in Milan. I’m glad I brought tons of layers and cashmere never fails but I need to rethink my bare legs in little Marni heels.

The first show of the day was supposed to start at 9am. Not today. Nearly an hour later, Marni presented a perfectly packaged collection of her loose-fitting silhouettes. Canadian superstar, Daria Werbowy (FLARE’s March cover girl!) , looked stunning in the perfectly cut wrap jackets and gathered skirts. Loved the grey tights, patent boots and the designer’s signature necklaces. It’s usually a pretty die-hard Marni grouping at this show but very civilized. I did walk out behind Anna Wintour who is tres petite.

I flew over to Pucci to see Matthew Williamson’s first collection for them. Pucci prints along with pretty empire waist dresses in beautiful pinks and mauves. Lets forget about the clothes. I spy a petite blond prancing along the front row. It’s Sienna Miller, Matthew’s muse. She is rushing over to Vanity Fair‘s Elizabeth Salzman to give her a big hug. Next, it’s hugs for the American Vogue team. She’s super cute, always grinning. She disappears as the show can’t quite get started with her amidst a swarm of photographers crammed on the runway.

I leave the show and wait outside for a bit. There is a rush of models flowing out of the gates (no backstage door at this venue). All of the girls are here – love Caroline Trentini. Next it’s a slew of showroom appointments as I am also here to cover the luxury goods market. There is time to slip into one of the five Prada stores in downtown Milan. Thinking that pale pink patent peep-toe pumps are the thing to buy today. Next it’s off to Philosophy di Alberta Ferretti, the younger, hipper line of Alberta Ferretti. It’s polished hippy – smart high waist knit dresses, fur cuffs and collars, suede jackets, and gold buttons, which are the new sequins. No one special but the lots of fashion editors sporting Lanvin and Chloe heels.

Prada ends the evening on a high note. It’s an intentionally chaotic mood here. Tons of editors are cramming in behind me. I spy India Hicks (the chic model turned author) and her husband, David. She’s carrying a great Tod‘s bag. Miuccia does street chic clothing for the tough, sexy girl. Lots of platforms and more fur. I spy Trudie Styler (wife of singer Sting) who jumps up after the show to give a standing O. Kelly Klein is wearing the best black patent pointed toe pumps in the crowd. Donatella [Versace] is here too.

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Feb 25 Feb 24 Feb 23Feb 22 • Feb 21 • Feb 20

Monday, February 20th

Fashion Week in Milan kicked off with a full-on extravaganza! Before the American editors could put a stop to their Torino olympics figure skating chit-chat, the first show of the week, D&G, opened to what could gave been the quintessential wintery Canadian scene- pine trees, sleighs, and girls bedecked in cable knit sweaters and leg warmers. They finished it with Santa coming out to Mariah Carey’s All I want for Christmas with hunky elves passing out candy to all of the editors ringside!

Jil Sander ended the day on a more somber note but the skinny suits, voluminous coats, and silk dresses left us all breathless. Stay tuned as Tuesday is the editors fave day- Marni and Prada!

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Feb 25 Feb 24 Feb 23Feb 22Feb 21 • Feb 20
Check out Lisa Tant’s New York Fashion Week Diary
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