1. Restraining Order
Detailed makeup artists got caught up in the minutia, crafting a natural beauty. Narciso Rodriguez’s minimalism came by way of Shiseido artistic director Dick Page’s adept yet gentle touch. He used concealer on lips to quiet natural tones where needed, rather than under eyes. While an expert team duplicated the look on a multitude of models, we noted that Page insisted on applying all blush himself, custom blending as he went. “I’m a control freak,” he confesses. “It’s a moment for me to take a look at the balance of the face and feel how much colour I want on the skin, because it’s not the same for every girl.”
Pat McGrath also took a fussy approach at Valentino, where she dabbed foundation over peachy hues on eyes, cheeks and lips to keep the definition soft. Her secret for the season’s signature semi-satin skin? Powder lightly after foundation and highlighter for a complexion that’s “matte and radiant, not matte and dead.”
FLARE Tip: Play with powder to tame shine and add subtle flush. Try: Shiseido Translucent Loose Powder, $42; Shiseido Luminizing Satin Face Color in Petal, $38
Oh So Sleek
Silky, straight and centre-parted are fall’s mane adjectives. At Theyskens’ Theory, Kérastase USA artistic director Odile Gilbert pulled front panels down and around to the back of the head, then secured at the nape to “create the headband with the hair of the girl,” she says. “The back is super, super light, so it looks like a veil.” FLARE pick: Kérastase Resistance Fibre Architecte, $42.
Neither as invisible as the come-and-gone bleached-out look nor as intense as last season’s power frames, fall’s brushed-up brows (seen at Carven, Proenza Schouler, J.W. Anderson and more) look groomed but not overpowering. FLARE pick: Nars Brow Gel in Oural, $25.
2. In The Drenches
Trend maker Guido Palau single-handedly catapulted wet looks to a catwalk hit. “Dry hair is flat to me at the moment,” explains the Redken creative consultant, pushing us to rethink in-from-the-rain styles. Building romantic insouciance at Prada, Palau imagined “a girl from a movie caught in the moment outside.” He saturated strands with nourishing oil, using his fingers to keep it unkempt: “We’re not after a prim look.”
Alberta Ferretti was similarly un-stiff. The pro revised the classic French twist by rolling damp, tousled strands into an updo. “We don’t want it to look too soft, so we opted for a wet texture.” Next, Palau overdosed on high-shine hairspray to make strands look soaked. At home, “don’t try to be overly clever with the styling. Keep it simple in a ponytail or messy top knot, and just change the texture.”
FLARE Pick: Liquid glow-getters for a non-stiff wet look: Moroccanoil Glimmer Shine Spray, $29; Redken Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine, $40
3. Bling Ring
Runways got illuminated, from the chunky sparkles at Chanel and the metallic floating liner at Dior to the ear art at Dries Van Noten, where Chanel’s Peter Philips glued crystals on lobes to fake glitzy cuffs. FLARE picks: Estée Lauder Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paint in Steel, $28. M.A.C Pressed Pigment in Enlightening, $25.