1. Treat Her Like A Lady
Melancholic romance made this season’s ladylike hair and makeup new. Models were primped to perfection, then messed up for relatable realness. Inspired by film noir at Prada, CoverGirl global creative design director Pat McGrath applied grey shadow, mascara and oxblood lipstick—the colour of the season—then smudged all with a face wipe. “When you wake up in the morning and you’ve already taken off your makeup, but there’s a little left, it looks so good,” she notes.
At Louis Vuitton, McGrath disheveled mid-century boudoir dwellers with smudged lids and blurred lip lines. Wipe-away makeup was present at Vera Wang too, where Clé de Peau makeup creative director Lucia Pieroni softened the outline of the berry pout with a cotton swab. “It’s like a blown rose that fades out at the edges,” she says, proving there’s beauty in the breakdown.
Both Bottega Veneta and Marc by Marc Jacobs featured ’40s-inspired luxury with ’70s hints. Our favourite part? The frizzed-out manes (think Veronica Lake waves meet Farrah Fawcett fluff). To conjure a “classic woman who’s a bit eccentric” at Marc by Marc Jacobs, Redken creative consultant Guido Palau created ringlets around the entire head, then teased it all to “take the seriousness away.”
2. Up The Anti
With the Met’s “Chaos to Couture” exhibit (and its high profile party) dominating fashion conversations, the word “punk” is in the air. Pantene Pro-V global ambassador Sam McKnight lived through the alt movement in London in the late ’70s. “My route to work was the 22 bus along the King’s Road, which was the centre of punk. I went past Vivienne [Westwood]’s Sex shop every day, so that was a strong image on my mind.” At Fendi, he wound a ridged braid down the middles of models’ heads, then embraced the street subculture’s DIY DNA by ripping fur from headbands to top them. “The braid gives the shape of a mohawk without being too punky,” he explains. Other rebel nods included spiky (faux) fringes, heavy black liner and the surge of an unexpected eye shadow shade—red—reversing the notion that crimson belongs on lips alone. Anarchy rules!
FLARE Tip: Grant overstyled strands relief with hydrating mousses and masks. Try: Pantene Pro-V Moisture Renewal Silky Moisture Whip, $6; Pantene Age Deft Rejuvenating Hydration Masque, $16
It’s meant to be subversive, so the way to wear it is with black or brown pencil around the eye, and then red on the eye[lid],” says Pat McGrath, who wielded her rouge-dipped brush at Givenchy and Gucci. FLARE pick: CoverGirl Flamed Out Shadow Pencil in Red-Hot Flame, $10.
Paint It Black: Eyes got scribbled with lines of all kinds, from major to minimal.
FLARE pick: CoverGirl Ink It! by Perfect Points Plus in Black Ink, $10.