Bobbi Brown is the founder and chief creative officer of Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, a New York Times bestselling author and multicultural-makeup pro. Readers of all skin tones can send questions to Bobbi Brown through Twitter @FLAREfashion or our Facebook page using the hashtag #FLAREasksbobbi.
“Which neutral eyeshadow shades are best for my skin tone?” —@headoverwater via Twitter
BOBBI: Varying shades and textures of brown and camel complement all skin tones. Rich complexions like yours look best with warmer hues such as chocolate and bronze, as cooler colours tend to look ashy and washed out. Highlighters in a similar palette will help brighten the eye area and lift your natural skin tone overall. To complete your look, pair with a nude lip.
“How do I find foundation that matches the slight changes in tone from the middle of my face outward?” —Melyssa Doornick via email
BOBBI: African skin tends to be deeper across the forehead and the perimeter of the face, and lighter in the middle. To create a seamless look, work with two different shades: the first, for the centre, should disappear when blended into your cheeks, down to your chin and across the bridge of your nose; the second should be a shade or two richer, vanishing into your forehead and temples. Blend it so there’s an unnoticeable transition. If you feel like you still need a more uniform tone, sweep on some bronzer, a great product for colour correcting.
“Should I use a different shade to camouflage under-eye circles than I would use to disguise blemishes and redness on my medium-brown skin?” —Alicia Cox Thomson, our digital managing editor
BOBBI: To neutralize dark eye bags, choose a corrector. Pink helps counteract any grey or blue tones, while peach does wonders for brown, green or purple casts. You can even layer the two. Next, apply an undereye concealer that’s one shade lighter than your foundation. For creasefree all-day wear, set with a light dusting of pale yellow powder. To cover imperfections or redness on other areas of your face, use a foundation stick that’s the same shade as your skin. A lighter concealer or a corrector with a pink or peach base will only make blemishes more visible.
“How can I give my baby face a more angular look?” —Vida Korhani, North York, Ont.
BOBBI: To sculpt your features, apply bronzer wherever the sun would naturally hit your face (forehead, bridge of the nose, apples of the cheeks). The right shade should mimic a suntan. Next, layer blush for more dimension: while smiling, swirl it on the centre of your cheeks with a fluffy brush, blending up toward your hairline and down toward your jaw. The best hue is one most like the flush you get from exercising or pinching those plump cheeks – which you will appreciate more as you age!