Citing science as a key inspiration point, Adrian Wu sent out an artfully deranged take on dressing for the homogametic sex. At first glance, gowns appeared to be alluding to the more-is-more ethos of Marie Antoinette types, what with their pastel pastry hues and liberal ruffles. But quickly, it was clear that things were not exactly as sweet as they seemed. Phallic and mammary-shaped orbs wrapped in tulle adorned Wu’s lofty creations. These low-slung, perverse appendages juxtaposed with the frothy femininity of his work, which at times felt both overwrought, yet unfinished in quality. Despite this, one must applaud Wu, who at 21, has both the talent and guts to take some serious risks (such as one dress with a blood-splattered crotch called The First, a provocative commentary), but it seemed that his own biological theme was often holding him back. One of the most unforgettable shows we saw this season, Wu’s next challenge should be subverting his vision instead of forcing it.