Lucian Matis Hits Two High Notes at Fashion Week

While his diffusion line showed commercial potential, his namesake label was full-on fashion fantasy

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Lucian Matis Spring 2013

Photo by George Pimentel

Lucian Matis Spring 2013

Photo by George Pimentel

Lucian Matis Spring 2013

Photo by George Pimentel

Lucian Matis Spring 2013

Photo by George Pimentel

Lucian Matis Spring 2013

Photo by George Pimentel

Lucian Matis Spring 2013

Photo by George Pimentel

Lucian Matis Spring 2013

Photo by George Pimentel

Lucian Matis has been showing his eponymous ready-to-wear line since 2007, yet this is only the second season for his diffusion label, Matis by Lucian Matis. Both, however, seem to be growing and maturing in leaps and bounds. Looking at the breadth of the “Store” page on Matis by Lucian Matis’s website is impressive enough. The diffusion line is true to its concept–clearly meant to address the daily needs of the everywoman’s life. While the usual fair of simple dark-tone dresses meant for meetings and work were certainly present, there was also a fair amount of the designer’s love of whimsy. Opening with bright floral prints and continuing on in the same vein with ‘70s-inspired optical patterns, these fabrics made up dresses in every cut and style, from wrap to slip to a long-sleeve, floor-skimming dress. While basic suiting walked the runway, the show ended with a series of silver-sequined ensembles, including a spangled evening suit worthy of Studio 54. [See the entire collection]
 
The designer’s namesake line has been a froth of drama and over-the-top excess. And while the fantasy that Matis has become known for still flooded the catwalk, the silhouettes were sleeker and the looks more mature. The show opened with multicoloured mosaic prints that were reminiscent of Gianni Versace’s iconic collections from the early ‘90s. The association was emphasized with body-con frocks and outsized shoulders and sleeves. What came next, however, was completely new. Dresses made from transparent, flesh-toned silk and layered over reptile skin-embossed skirts triggered audible gasps from the audience–and accessories to match by Canadian darling Dandi Maestre. To finish there were a series of croc embossed leather pieces: a black pullover paired with red shorts, a bralette and culottes, a mustard skirt suit, and finally a black gown with a deep-V neckline that evoked a spontaneous round of applause from a VIP in the front row. It was collection of which the designer should be very proud; fashion at its most indulgent and most fun. [See the entire collection]

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