From the opening look to the last exit, it was apparent John Galliano was in the building for Oscar de la Renta’s Fall 2013 runway show on Tuesday. When news broke last month that de la Renta invited Galliano to be a designer-in-residence at his studio, the fashion realm began speculating how the once mesmerized Frenchman would influence pieces in the collection. While only de la Renta received the crowd’s applause at the finale, one can make the safe assumption that elements of the collection felt a great deal more vive la France.
Certain looks appeared to have been delivered by the hands of the shamed former Dior designer. Deep, draped necklines, enlarged hips rendered by belted waists, the classic Dior Bar silhouette was present amidst looks that have become unmistakably de la Renta’s—like the show’s black party dress with white embroidery. This year the 80-year-old will celebrate half a century as an American couturier. If de la Renta wanted to cover new territory for his 50-year mark, it was certainly achieved. But where does one draw the line?
Beyond the floral jacquards, series of sheer, cloche hats, and that Dior mulberry purple, even de la Renta’s beauty looks mirrored Galliano collections of yore. The unkempt tresses and soft coral lips that opened the show were overpowered by the closing looks’ exaggerated eyes, wine-stained thin lips and Marcel waves (nostalgic of Dior circa Fall 2009, no?). Luckily for de la Renta, the two separate visions were flawlessly joined in one stunning collection.