The spare Danish modern mélanges of ergonomic louisecampbell.com and sensual mastery by Arne Jacobsen, Finn Juhl, Hans Wegner and so many more at the Danish Museum of Art & Design inspire me to call on the influential female designer Louise Campbell. We drink loose-leaf tea out of porcelain cups from her collaboration with Royal Copenhagen while she explains that long winters shaped the national urge to craft beautiful, functional things that make indoors a place to explore dreams. Her LC Shutters lamp, for example, is a happy-hibernation classic designed to soften everything.
FAIRY-TALE FOOD & BEDS
Winter calls on our sweet tooth, and the Danes know how to satisfy it. I make a visit to one of the oldest cake shops, La Glace for sweets, hot chocolate and an exquisite 19th-century tele-transportation experience. Hotel Fox’s lush rooms, decorated by 21 different artists, and Hotel d’Angleterre’s elegant, newly renovated suites maintain the otherworldly, old-worldy charms of the city. Since it’s near impossible to get a table at Noma, I eat at Geranium, where Noma-trained chefs serve a tasting menu of local fare, while I sink into an Eames-Saarinen chair.
WALK & SHOP
Emerging Danish clothes wizards capture winter in wearable art. I adore Henrik Vibskov’s boutique, where high fashion and Danish cow-field visions meet in comfortable, edgy clothes. I pick up some soft blue knits at Edith & Ella and linger at Bach Copenhagen, furriers for the Danish royals. Along the Jægersborggade I explore cafés, design shops, secondhand clothing stores and lamp shops alongside local hipsters, also hunting for treasures and organic fly-by meals. From there I stroll the cobblestoned Strøget, designed to be car-free. Storm and Holly Golightly, concept boutiques that mingle luxe creams with exclusive labels, are my final stops in Wonderland.
NIGHTLIFE & BIKE LIFE
Cycling is sacred in Copenhagen, even in the snow. There are many parked outside Ruby, where the candles, sensual wallpaper and classic cocktails lend a boudoir feeling. After-hours at Jolene (Flæsketorvet 81, 1711) in the meatpacking district, the ambience is carried further with pink-washed lighting and sounds from local DJ gods like Trentemøller, spinning dance tunes from a circus-themed booth. Fairy lights lining the streets glow through the foggy window.