Elie Saab Fall/Winter '10
Photo by Anthea Simms
Elie Saab Fall/Winter '10
Photo by Anthea Simms
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter '10
Photo by Anthea Simms
Louis Vuitton Fall/Winter '10
Photo by Anthea Simms
Hermès Fall/Winter '10
Photo by Anthea Simms
Hermès Fall/Winter '10
Photo by Anthea Simms
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Elizabeth Cabral
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Thu 11 Mar 2010 10:11 AM
It's the last day of Paris Fashion Week and while I'm exhausted, I'm also inspired and excited about the season to come.
I started off at Elie Saab, a great red carpet designer. In his show notes he referred to a mysterious woman and this was reflected in the dark, gothic lace he showed. While most of the show was black, there was a finale of densely sequined/beaded glittering dresses that looked like something of another galaxy. The accessories were also a lot edgier for this eveningwear label with leather covered spiked bags, fingerless patent gloves, and fierce shoes.
I zipped down to the Marais to have a look at Canadian-raised, Paris-based designer Calla Hayes' sophomore collection. While it was tiny, it was beautiful with a lot of strong pieces and very focused ideas. Her signature custom prints decorated body con dresses and authentic Ikat fabrics made for some cool blazers. My favourite piece was a body con dress with a removable tiered ruffle skirt. Two-in-one, and totally genius. Calla Hayes is certainly a label to watch, and I can see It girls everywhere falling in love with it.
The much anticipated Louis Vuitton show was next and I took no chances with the notoriously punctual Marc Jacobs, showing up half an hour early. The show was in a tent in the Carre Cour de Louvre that surrounds the historical fountain. At 2:30pm sharp, the fountain turned on and a waltz played over the sound system. It was like something out of a movie. A succession of buxom, womanly models like Laeticia Casta, Adriana Lima, Bar Rafaeli, Coco Rocha and Elle McPherson walked around the fountain in 50's inspired clothes: full dirndl skirts, shrunken sweaters, floral prints and gorgeous gowns. There was not a pant in sight. Shoes were decorated with big bows, and bags were vintage-shaped top handle purses. What's amazing is that Jacobs does a 180 every season and totally surprises the fashion world with a completely new message than the last collection. Sure keeps shoppers and the fashion biz on their toes.
My last show of the season was Hermès. Lily Cole made a rare runway appearance in an Avengers-style catsuit and bowler hat. With the James Bond theme spinning on the soundtrack, the rest of the show oozed mystery and danger with leather-on-leather looks, fabulous croc pants and jackets, wrap coats and wonderful angora knit full skirts. Every model wore a bowler hat, most carried an umbrella, and Coco Rocha even sported a magnifying glass on a chain around her neck. The classic Kelly bag was covered in shiny rhinestones.