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Spring runways were awash with red lips—often the only slash of colour on a bare face—for a lighter, fresher mood. “I love it when there is one strong element and the rest [of the face] is pure,” says Stéphane Marais, lead makeup artist for M.A.C, at Jean Paul Gaultier, where glossy red lips were straight out of a Guy Bourdin photograph. For Yves Saint Laurent, Pat McGrath, global creative design director for CoverGirl, drew on '70s muse Talitha Getty and couture collector Ann Bonfoey Taylor to create an “eccentric, modern, timeless” face that featured gold-glittered red lips and eyes circled with black- brown cream liner. Red wasn’t limited to lips—it added catwalk chic to cheeks, eyes and nails at Anna Sui, where McGrath swept rouge blush along the cheekbones and over the temples, inspired by ’70s socialite Donna Jordan. At Miu Miu, she put lipstick on lids to score major intensity, a look she dubs “a dark, modern-day bourgeois fairy tale.”
FLARE picks: M.A.C Pro Longwear Lipcolor in Lasting Lust, $27. CoverGirl LipPerfection Lipstick in Tempt, $11.